Sweet peppers that start green and ripen to red, yellow, or orange. Need warmth and patience -- green peppers are just unripe coloured peppers.
Plant window opens
Feb 5
Last chance to plant
Jun 29
Last frost
~Jan 15
Days to harvest
70–85 days
Difficulty
Medium
Ready to harvest — Zone 10
Harvest: Apr - May, Oct - Dec
Harvest urgency: weekly— Harvest window lasts several weeks
Planting Calendar
In Zone 10, Bell Pepper can be planted outdoors from Feb 5 — the window closes around Jun 29. Start seeds indoors around Dec 11 - Dec 18, Apr 20 - Apr 27.
Jan
Feb
Mar
Apr
May
Jun
Jul
Aug
Sep
Oct
Nov
Dec
plant
plant
plant
plant
too late
too late
too late
too late
too late
too late
too late
too late
too late
harvest
harvest
harvest
harvest
harvest
harvest
harvest
harvest
harvest
harvest
plant window
harvest
too late
Near year-round production. Perennial in frost-free areas -- overwintered plants produce heavily.
Your zone at a finer grainNOAA 1991–2020
Zone 10 is split into two subzones. The a/b distinction affects your exact last frost date by 1–2 weeks -- meaningful for heat-sensitive crops and fruit tree hardiness.
Subzone
Last frost
First fall
Season
Min temp
10a
none
none
~365 days
30 to 35°F
10b
none
none
~365 days
35 to 40°F
plant detects your subzone from your location and adjusts planting windows accordingly.
Growing Journey
Here is what to expect at each stage — and what to do when you get there.
GerminationDay 7-21
Peppers need warmth more than any other vegetable. Keep soil at 80-85°F if possible. A heat mat is not optional with pep
SeedlingDay 14-42
Keep them warm and bright. Peppers are slow at this stage -- be patient. Do not overwater; they are prone to damping off
EstablishedDay 42-70
Peppers hate cold soil more than they hate cold air. Wait until nights are reliably above 55°F and the soil temperature
FloweringDay 60-90
Some growers remove the first flower (the 'king flower') to encourage bushier growth and more fruit. It is optional but
HarvestDay 70-100
Pick green to maximise total yield, or wait for colour if flavour matters more. Use scissors or a knife -- pulling can s
End of SeasonDay 120-180
Bring container peppers inside before the first frost -- they can overwinter as houseplants and come back stronger next
What to Expect
Typical yield
6-10 bell peppers per plant, or 20-30+ hot peppers
At peak: A healthy bell pepper plant produces fruit in flushes -- you may get several at once, then a pause
Peppers are one of the more challenging crops in cooler climates. A good harvest in year one is something to be genuinely proud of.
Key factorssoil temperature at transplantnight temperaturesconsistent feedingsunlight hours
Get notified when to plant, water, and harvest your Bell Pepper — personalized for your zone.
Grown Bell Pepper before?or
Care Guide
Sunlight
Full sun · 6–8 hrs/day
Watering
Regular
Spacing
18–24 inches
Soil
Well-draining, fertile loam
Days to maturity
70–85 days
Soil pH
6.0–6.8
Plant tip · Zone 10
Near year-round production. Perennial in frost-free areas -- overwintered plants produce heavily.
How to know it's ready
Green peppers: pick when full sized and firm (any time). For coloured peppers, leave until fully red/yellow/orange -- takes 2-3 more weeks. Coloured peppers are sweeter.
Watering Bell Pepper
How often
Every 3-4 days
How much
1 inch per week
Method
At soil level
Overwatering signs
Yellow leaves, root rot
Underwatering signs
Wilting, flower drop, dry crumbly soil
Feeding Schedule
How often
every 2 weeks
Feed type
Tomato or vegetable fertilizer
Key timing
start when first flowers appear
NPK: balanced then high K, e.g. 5-10-10
Similar to tomatoes. High nitrogen early encourages leafy growth; switch to high-potassium at flowering.
Example product: Espoma Garden-Tone
Reminder: every 21 days after feeding
Indoors — 8 weeks before last frostHarden off required
Start 8-10 weeks before last frost -- peppers are slow. Soil must be warm (70°F+) at transplant. Harden off over 10 days.
Container friendly · Minimum 5 gallons
Very good container crop. 5-gallon pot. One plant per pot. Protect from wind.
Companion Planting
Some plants help Bell Pepper thrive. Others compete or cause problems.
Grows well with
BasilCarrotsSpinachTomatoes
Keep apart from
FennelBrassicas
Common Problems
Something went wrong? Here is what likely happened and what to do differently next time.
Frost or cold damage
What happened: Peppers are even more cold-sensitive than tomatoes. Cold soil at transplant time is the most common cause of stunted, struggling plants -- the plant survives but sulks for weeks and never fully recovers its momentum.
Next season: Check soil temperature before transplanting -- it must be 65°F or warmer. A cold snap after transplant can be just as damaging. Keep fleece handy for the first few weeks.
Pests or disease
What happened: Peppers can be affected by aphids, spider mites in hot dry weather, and bacterial spot in humid conditions. Spider mites thrive when plants are stressed -- usually by drought or heat.
Next season: Consistent watering prevents drought stress that invites spider mites. Good airflow around plants reduces humidity-related disease. Check undersides of leaves regularly.
Too much water
What happened: Overwatered peppers show yellowing leaves and root rot. They prefer to dry out slightly between waterings -- unlike tomatoes they do not want consistently moist soil.
Next season: Water when the top inch of soil is dry. Ensure excellent drainage -- peppers are more drought-tolerant than most vegetables once established.
Too little water
What happened: Drought stress during flowering causes flowers to drop before setting fruit. This is one of the most common reasons for a pepper plant with no fruit.
Next season: Water consistently during the flowering period. Deep watering twice a week is better than light daily watering.
Not enough sun
What happened: Peppers need full sun -- 8 hours minimum. In less sun they grow slowly, flower poorly, and are much more susceptible to disease.
Next season: If your site gets less than 6 hours of direct sun, consider a different crop. Peppers planted in marginal light rarely justify the long season they require.
What went wrong
Something didn't work out? Here is what likely happened and what to do differently next season.
Frost or cold damage
What happened: Peppers are even more cold-sensitive than tomatoes. Cold soil at transplant time is the most common cause of stunted, struggling plants -- the plant survives but sulks for weeks and never fully recovers its momentum.
Next season: Check soil temperature before transplanting -- it must be 65°F or warmer. A cold snap after transplant can be just as damaging. Keep fleece handy for the first few weeks.
Pests or disease
What happened: Peppers can be affected by aphids, spider mites in hot dry weather, and bacterial spot in humid conditions. Spider mites thrive when plants are stressed -- usually by drought or heat.
Next season: Consistent watering prevents drought stress that invites spider mites. Good airflow around plants reduces humidity-related disease. Check undersides of leaves regularly.
Too much water
What happened: Overwatered peppers show yellowing leaves and root rot. They prefer to dry out slightly between waterings -- unlike tomatoes they do not want consistently moist soil.
Next season: Water when the top inch of soil is dry. Ensure excellent drainage -- peppers are more drought-tolerant than most vegetables once established.
Too little water
What happened: Drought stress during flowering causes flowers to drop before setting fruit. This is one of the most common reasons for a pepper plant with no fruit.
Next season: Water consistently during the flowering period. Deep watering twice a week is better than light daily watering.
Not enough sun
What happened: Peppers need full sun -- 8 hours minimum. In less sun they grow slowly, flower poorly, and are much more susceptible to disease.
Next season: If your site gets less than 6 hours of direct sun, consider a different crop. Peppers planted in marginal light rarely justify the long season they require.
Pests & Diseases
Know what to look for before it gets out of hand — early identification is the most important step.
Aphids
pestmedium
What to look for
Clusters of tiny soft insects on new growth and leaf undersides. Leaves curl, yellow, or become sticky with honeydew. Sooty black mold may follow.
Cause
Multiple aphid species. Populations explode rapidly in warm weather.
Organic treatment
Blast off with strong water jet. Apply insecticidal soap or neem oil directly to colonies. Introduce ladybugs or lacewings.
Prevention
Plant marigolds and nasturtiums nearby. Avoid excess nitrogen fertilizer which creates soft, aphid-attractive growth. Encourage beneficial insects.
Tomato hornworm
pesthigh
What to look for
Large green caterpillars (up to 4 inches) stripping foliage. Leaves disappear rapidly. Black droppings on leaves.
Cause
Manduca quinquemaculata moth larvae. Mid to late summer pest.
Organic treatment
Hand-pick -- they are well camouflaged but easy to remove. Apply Bt (Bacillus thuringiensis) spray. If white cocoons visible on back, leave them -- parasitic wasps are doing the work.
Prevention
Till soil in autumn to kill overwintering pupae. Plant dill and basil nearby to attract predatory wasps.
Flea beetles
pestlow
What to look for
Tiny round shot-holes in leaves, especially on seedlings and young plants. Small shiny black beetles jump when disturbed.
Cause
Multiple flea beetle species. Most active in spring on young plants.
Organic treatment
Use row covers on seedlings. Apply diatomaceous earth. Neem oil spray.
Prevention
Delay transplanting until plants are large. Use transplants rather than seeds.
Spider mites
pestmedium
What to look for
Fine stippling or yellow dots on leaves. Fine webbing on leaf undersides. Leaves may bronze, dry out, and drop. Worst in hot dry weather.
Cause
Tetranychus urticae and related species. Thrives in heat and drought.
Organic treatment
Blast with water repeatedly. Apply neem oil or insecticidal soap to leaf undersides. Increase humidity around plants.
Prevention
Keep plants well-watered in hot weather. Avoid dusty conditions. Introduce predatory mites.
Early blight
diseasemedium
What to look for
Dark brown spots with concentric rings on lower leaves first. Affected leaves yellow and drop. Spreads upward through plant.
Cause
Alternaria fungus. Favoured by warm wet conditions.
Rotate tomatoes every 3-4 years. Water at soil level. Space plants for airflow. Stake to keep foliage off ground.
Late blight
diseasehigh
What to look for
Water-soaked, rapidly expanding brown patches on leaves and stems. White fuzzy growth on undersides in humid conditions. Can destroy plants in days.
Cause
Phytophthora infestans oomycete. The same pathogen that caused the Irish potato famine. Spreads rapidly in cool wet weather.
Organic treatment
Remove and destroy all affected material immediately -- do not compost. Apply copper fungicide preventively in wet conditions.
Prevention
Plant resistant varieties. Ensure excellent airflow. Never leave tomato debris in the garden over winter.
Anthracnose
diseasemedium
What to look for
Dark sunken lesions on ripening fruit. Fruit rots on plant.
Cause
Colletotrichum fungus. Favoured by warm humid conditions.
Organic treatment
Remove affected fruit. Apply copper fungicide.
Prevention
Rotate crops. Water at soil level. Harvest promptly when ripe.
Blossom end rot
disordermedium
What to look for
Dark, sunken, leathery patch at the bottom (blossom end) of fruit. Affects first fruits most. Not contagious.
Cause
Calcium deficiency in developing fruit, caused by irregular watering or root damage -- not a pest or disease.
Organic treatment
Mulch to maintain even soil moisture. Water consistently. Foliar calcium spray provides some relief. Remove affected fruit.
Prevention
Consistent watering is the key prevention. Avoid root disturbance. Do not over-fertilize with nitrogen.
Recommended Varieties
California Wonder (classic)
Yolo Wonder (heat tolerant)
Sweet Banana
Gypsy (early)
Gypsy is a great early-maturing option for short seasons -- produces yellow-orange fruits.
Crop Rotation — rotate every 3 years
Nightshade family (Solanaceae)
Avoid planting after: Tomatoes, peppers, eggplant, potatoes -- all share blight and fusarium diseases
Good to follow: Brassicas, legumes, corn, root vegetables
Always rotate nightshades to a fresh bed -- blight and fusarium can persist in soil for years.
Storing Your Harvest
Room temp
1 week at room temperature
Fridge
1-2 weeks in fridge in a bag
Freezer
Slice and freeze raw -- excellent for cooking. No blanching needed.
Green peppers store longer than red/yellow. Frozen peppers are great for stir-fries.
Free app · Kickstarter October 2027 · iOS February 2028
Know exactly when to plant, prune, and harvest Bell Pepper
plant uses your ZIP code and real frost data to tell you the right day — not just the right month. Get notified when your planting window opens, when to succession sow, and when to cut back for next season.
You're in ✓ — we'll be in touch before launch.
Something went wrong — try again.
Be first to back on Kickstarter · founding grower pricing locked in.
Weather watch
plant monitors these conditions and sends an alert the moment they are forecast for your location.
Frost Warning
Frost warning -- protect your peppers tonight
Peppers are very frost-tender. Cover with fleece or bring containers inside tonight. Even a light frost can damage or kill the plant. Do not risk it.
HIGH priority
Heat Stress
Heat stress -- your peppers may drop flowers
Very high temperatures cause pepper flowers to drop before they can set fruit. Water deeply in the early morning and consider light shade cloth during peak afternoon heat. Hot peppers handle heat better than sweet varieties.
MEDIUM priority
Cold Snap
Cold snap coming -- protect young pepper plants
A sudden temperature drop can set pepper plants back significantly. Cover outdoor plants tonight and check soil temperature tomorrow. Peppers that get cold-shocked at transplant can stall for weeks.
HIGH priority
Drought
Dry spell -- your peppers need deep watering
Drought stress during fruiting causes blossom drop and poor fruit development. Water deeply at the base twice a week and mulch heavily to retain moisture.
MEDIUM priority
Moon phase planting
Traditional growers have used lunar cycles to time planting and harvest for centuries. The moon affects moisture levels in soil and sap flow in plants.
Above-ground crop
Waxing moon -- new moon to full moon
Plant and harvest on a waxing moon. Energy draws upward into leaves, stems, and fruit. Germination is strongest in the days after the new moon.
Lunar phase guide
New moon → Full moon
Waxing phase
Best for planting above-ground crops. Sap rises, germination is stronger. Good for transplanting.
Full moon → New moon
Waning phase
Best for harvesting, pruning, and root crops. Energy draws downward. Good for dividing perennials.
Full moon
Peak moisture
Avoid planting -- seeds may rot in high-moisture conditions. Good for harvesting crops to eat fresh.
New moon
Rest period
Avoid planting or transplanting. Best for soil preparation, weeding, and composting.
Common questions
In Zone 10, start bell pepper seeds indoors around Dec 11 - Dec 18, Apr 20 - Apr 27, then transplant outdoors Feb 5 - Feb 26, Jun 15 - Jun 29 after your last frost around Jan 15. Near year-round production. Perennial in frost-free areas -- overwintered plants produce heavily.
Zone 10 has an average last spring frost around Jan 15 and a first fall frost around Dec 31. These vary by location — the plant app uses your ZIP code with NOAA data for precision.
Good companions for bell pepper include Basil, Carrots, Spinach, Tomatoes. Avoid planting near Fennel, Brassicas.
Bell Pepper typically takes 70–85 days to harvest in Zone 10. Expected harvest window: Apr - May, Oct - Dec.
These guides get better when growers share what they know. If something's off or you've learned something worth passing on, add it here -- accepted tips earn you a Founding Grower badge when plant launches.
Your tip for growing Bell Pepper
Your name (optional)
Your zone
Your email (optional)
Tips are reviewed before publishing. Zone 10 tips appear on nearby zone pages too.
Thanks for contributing! We'll review your tip and be in touch before launch.
What needs correcting?
What should it say?
Your email (optional)
Thanks -- we'll review this and update the guide if needed.