Calibrated to Pick your zone and the dates re-calibrate.

The Guide Fruit trees Vol. 004

Pawpaw

in Zone 9, this week

A pawpaw (Asimina triloba) is a small tree native to the eastern United States that gives the largest fruit of any plant native to North America. The fruit tastes tropical, like a mix of banana, mango, and pineapple, with a soft custard texture; it ripens in late summer and fall and spoils so fast you almost never see it in stores. Two things make pawpaw different from other fruit trees. First, one tree cannot pollinate itself, and it is pollinated by flies and beetles instead of bees, so you need at least two different trees and often have to hand-pollinate the flowers to get fruit. Second, it grows wild under other trees, so a young pawpaw wants some shade for its first year or two before it can take full sun. It is very cold-hardy (about zones 5 to 8), spreads by suckers into patches, has almost no pest or disease problems, and deer leave it alone. Pawpaw (Asimina triloba) is a deciduous understory tree native to eastern North America and, in the Annonaceae (custard-apple) family, the largest edible fruit native to the continent. Its custardy, tropical-tasting fruit, a blend of banana, mango, and pineapple, ripens in late summer and fall and is so perishable it is almost never sold in stores. Growing it well means working with two unusual traits: it is self-incompatible and fly- and beetle-pollinated, so it needs two genetically distinct trees and often hand pollination to set fruit; and as a woodland understory native, its young foliage wants part shade the first year or two before it takes full sun. It is very cold-hardy across roughly zones 5 to 8, spreads by root suckers into clonal patches, and is notably free of the pests and diseases that plague other fruit trees, with deer avoiding its foliage.

Fig. 01 · Pawpaw, mature Zone 9

First fruit

4-7 yrs

to first harvest

Sunlight

Full sun (part shade the first year or two)

6-8 hrs daily

Water

Moderate to high

Spacing

8-15 ft

between trees

Soil pH

5.5-7

slightly acidic

Hardiness & fruiting range

Will it actually fruit here?

Hardiness tells you the tree will survive your winters. It does not tell you whether you will get fruit. Each zone carries its own verdict. Yours is marked.

survives,
rarely fruits

reliable

Your zone

survives,
low chill

Fruits reliably

Fruits reliably Survives only Too warm

← colder winterswarmer, less chill →

! Zone 9: Like interior zone 8, pawpaw is marginal here: it can fruit with careful watering, wind protection, and shade, but the hot, dry climate and less winter cold make it a challenging choice, not a natural fit.As in interior zone 8, pawpaw is marginal here: it can fruit with careful irrigation, wind shelter, and shade, but the hot, dry climate and lower chill make it a challenging, high-care choice rather than a natural fit.

The growing year

Your pawpaw year, month by month

California: Interior, Zone 9. Winters bank about 300 to 950 chill hours; these varieties need about 400 to 1000 chill hours. Like interior zone 8, pawpaw is marginal here: it can fruit with careful watering, wind protection, and shade, but the hot, dry climate and less winter cold make it a challenging choice, not a natural fit.As in interior zone 8, pawpaw is marginal here: it can fruit with careful irrigation, wind shelter, and shade, but the hot, dry climate and lower chill make it a challenging, high-care choice rather than a natural fit.

A fruit tree runs on the same rhythm every year: rest, prune, bloom, grow, harvest, then settle in again.

Jan

Feb

Mar

Apr

May

Jun

Jul

Aug

Sep

Oct

Nov

Dec

▲ We are here

Tree’s year

rest

prune

bloom

growing

harvest

care

rest

Dormant rest Prune Bloom Growing fruit Harvest Post-harvest care

Plant bare-root
Spring

Bloom
Mar 10 - Mar 30

Harvest
Aug 20 - Sep 20

Chill hours

Will your winter be cold enough?

Pawpaw needs some winter cold, measured as chill hours, before it will bloom properly in spring, but scientists have not pinned down exactly how much. The estimate is roughly 400 to 1000 hours, with northern types needing more and southern ones less. For most of where pawpaw grows, chill is not the thing that decides success, and unlike peaches you do not need to match varieties carefully to it. It mainly matters at the warm southern edge, where very mild winters may not give the tree enough cold for good flowering and fruit set.Pawpaw needs a stretch of winter cold, counted as chill hours, to break dormancy and bloom properly, but its exact requirement has not been rigorously studied. Current estimates put it at roughly 400 to 1000 chill hours, with northern-adapted selections needing more and southern ones less. In practice, chill is rarely the deciding factor across most of pawpaw's range; unlike peach, you do not match cultivars closely to chill. It matters mainly at the warm southern edge, where very mild winters can leave a tree short of the cold it needs for even bloom and good set.

Your winter ~300 – 950 hrs

0 250 500 750 1000

✓Dependable here

Shenandoah400Susquehanna400Allegheny400Potomac400Sunflower400Overleese400Wabash400Mango400

!Borderline in a warm winter

None. Every variety in this roster gets enough chill here.

Bloom timing & cross-pollination

Pawpaws need a partner

A lone pawpaw tree sets little or no fruit. Pawpaw flowers need pollen from a different variety, carried by bees, and the two trees have to bloom at the same time to trade it. Plant a second variety whose bloom window overlaps, within about 50 feet.

Shenandoah blooms mid season. 7 varieties overlap and can pollinate it: Susquehanna, Allegheny, Potomac, Sunflower, Overleese, Wabash, Mango.Best pick: Allegheny, the strongest bloom overlap of the group.

Bar length shows how long each variety blooms, roughly 8 to 14 days. Bars that overlap can cross-pollinate.

▲ Tap a variety to see its pollination partners

Very early Early Mid Late Very late

Shenandoah✓ partner

Susquehanna✓ partner

Allegheny✓ partner

Potomac✓ partner

Sunflower✓ partner

Overleese✓ partner

Wabash✓ partner

Mango✓ partner

The pollination rule

Pollination is the hardest part of growing pawpaw, and it works unlike any other fruit tree. First, a pawpaw cannot pollinate itself: one tree, or a patch that is really one plant spread by suckers, will flower a lot but give almost no fruit, so you must plant at least two different trees (two different named varieties, or two or more seedlings) close together. Second, pawpaw is pollinated by flies and beetles, not bees; its deep maroon flowers give off a faint carrion or fermented smell to attract them, and these insects are unreliable, so even with two trees the fruit set is often poor. That is why most serious growers hand-pollinate: use a small soft brush to move fresh pollen from the newly opened flowers of one tree to the sticky centers of the flowers on a different tree, doing it several times during bloom. The flowers are also built so their female part is ready before their own pollen is released, which further stops a flower from pollinating itself.Pollination is the defining challenge of growing pawpaw, and it works unlike any other fruit tree. Pawpaw is self-incompatible: a single tree, or a stand that is genetically one clone (a named cultivar plus its own root suckers), will bloom heavily but set almost no fruit, so you must plant at least two genetically distinct trees, two different cultivars or two or more seedlings, close together. On top of that, pawpaw is pollinated by flies and beetles rather than bees; its deep maroon, faintly carrion-scented flowers evolved to attract them, and these pollinators are inefficient and undependable, so natural fruit set is often poor even with two trees. Because of this, most serious growers hand-pollinate: with a small soft brush, transfer fresh pollen from the just-opened flowers of one tree to the ripe, sticky stigmas of a genetically different tree, repeating over the bloom period. The flower is also protogynous, its female parts receptive before its own pollen sheds, which further prevents self-pollination.

Pick your variety

Recommended varieties

Picking pawpaw varieties is different from other fruit trees: the main rule is to plant two different kinds, not to match cold hours. Because a pawpaw cannot pollinate itself, plant at least two different named varieties (or a variety plus some seedlings) that bloom around the same time so their flowers can cross. Named grafted varieties, like the well-known Peterson types (Shenandoah, Susquehanna, Allegheny, Potomac) and older favorites like Sunflower and Overleese, give bigger fruit with fewer seeds and better flavor than plain seedlings, and they fruit sooner. Pawpaw's cold-hours need is roughly 400 to 1000 and about the same across varieties, so do not stress over it; just plant two that bloom together.Choose pawpaw varieties differently from other fruit trees: the first rule is genetic diversity, not chill matching. Because the species is self-incompatible, plant at least two different cultivars (or a cultivar plus seedlings) with overlapping bloom so their flowers can cross-pollinate. Named grafted cultivars, most famously the Peterson selections (Shenandoah, Susquehanna, Allegheny, Potomac) and old standards like Sunflower and Overleese, give larger fruit, fewer seeds, and better flavor than random seedlings, and they bear sooner. Chill requirement is estimated at roughly 400 to 1000 hours and is not well differentiated among cultivars, so match your winters loosely and prioritize two compatible, overlapping-bloom trees.

Shenandoah

fresh eating

Susquehanna

fresh eating

Allegheny

fresh eating

Potomac

fresh eating

Sunflower

fresh eating

Overleese

fresh eating

Wabash

fresh eating

Mango

fresh eating

Rootstock & size

How big will it get?

Named pawpaw cultivars are grafted onto pawpaw (Asimina triloba) seedling rootstock; there are no size-controlling or dwarfing rootstocks, so the tree grows to full size whatever it is grafted on.

Pawpaw seedling (grafted) standard

Mature height: 15–25 ft
Bears: year 4–5
Container: in-ground

Own-root seedling (ungrafted) standard

Mature height: 15–25 ft
Bears: year 5–8
Container: in-ground

Ask the nursery

Ask for a named cultivar grafted onto pawpaw seedling rootstock; there is no dwarfing option.

From seed to fruit

The growing journey

Stage 01 · Planting (potted, spring)

Planting (potted, spring)

A young tree grown in a pot, with its roots kept whole. Pick a deep, rich, well-draining spot that is slightly acidic, ideally with a little shade for the first year or two, and not in a low frosty dip.A container-grown young tree with an intact root ball and a deep, undisturbed taproot. Choose a deep, fertile, well-drained, slightly acidic site, ideally with light shade for the first year or two, and out of frost pockets.

Plant it straight from the pot without breaking up the roots, at the same depth it was growing. Fill in with the soil you dug out mixed with compost, water it in well, and mulch. Plant at least two different trees near each other so they can pollinate, and give the young tree some shade.Plant from the container without breaking up the root ball, at the same depth it grew in the pot. Backfill with native soil enriched with compost, water in well, and mulch. Set out at least two genetically different trees close together for cross-pollination, and shade the young tree.

FROM PLANT · Plant at least two different pawpaws near each other. One pawpaw cannot pollinate itself, so a single tree (or a tree and its own suckers) will flower but give almost no fruit.Plant at least two genetically different pawpaws close together. The species is self-incompatible, so a lone tree, or one clone and its suckers, will bloom but barely fruit.

FROM PLANT · Use a potted tree and plant in spring. Pawpaw has a deep, easily broken taproot that does not move well bare-root, so a potted tree with its roots kept whole settles in much better.Use a potted tree and plant in spring. Pawpaw's deep, brittle taproot transplants poorly bare-root, so a container tree with an intact root ball establishes far more reliably.

Year-one establishment (shade the young tree)

Slow but steady new growth as the tree settles in. Pawpaw is slow at first, and its young leaves burn in strong sun, so watch for scorched leaf edges if it is not shaded.Slow, steady new growth from a tree that is settling in. Pawpaw is slow to start, and its young foliage is sun-sensitive, so watch for leaf scorch if the tree is in strong sun without protection.

Give the tree shade for the first year or two (shade cloth, a taller plant nearby, or a partly shaded spot), keep the soil evenly moist, and mulch. Pick off any flowers so the tree puts its energy into roots and branches. Never let a young pawpaw dry out.Provide shade for the first year or two (a shade cloth, a nurse plant, or a naturally part-shaded spot), keep the soil consistently moist, and mulch well. Remove any flowers that form so the tree invests in roots and framework. Do not let a young pawpaw dry out.

FROM PLANT · Give the young tree shade for its first year or two. Pawpaw naturally grows under other trees, and its young leaves burn in full sun. It wants full sun only once it is established.Shade the young tree for its first one to two seasons. Pawpaw is a woodland understory native and its young foliage scorches in full sun; it wants full sun only once established.

FROM PLANT · Never let a young pawpaw dry out. It is easily hurt by drought while getting established, so keep the soil evenly moist under a thick mulch for the first two years.Never let a young pawpaw dry out. It is drought-sensitive while establishing; keep the soil consistently moist under a thick mulch through the first two seasons.

Canopy formation (years one to four)

Pawpaw naturally grows into a neat pyramid shape with one main upright stem, and needs much less pruning than a peach. Look for dead, broken, or crossing branches; mostly the tree shapes itself.Pawpaw naturally forms a pyramidal, central-leader tree and needs far less shaping than a peach. Watch for dead, broken, or crossing wood and for a clear central leader; the tree largely trains itself.

Prune lightly in late winter: cut out dead, broken, or crossing branches and keep one main upright stem. Pawpaw fruits on last year's wood, so do not cut it back hard. Pull off root suckers if you do not want it to spread.Prune lightly in late dormancy: remove dead, broken, and crossing wood and keep a single central leader. Pawpaw fruits on the previous year's wood, so avoid heavy heading. Remove root suckers if you do not want a spreading patch.

FROM PLANT · Pawpaw naturally grows into a neat pyramid with one main stem and needs much less pruning than a peach; keep one main stem and cut out only dead, broken, or crossing branches.Pawpaw trains itself to a pyramidal central leader and needs far less pruning than a peach; keep one leader and remove only dead, broken, or crossing wood.

FROM PLANT · Pull off root suckers if you do not want the tree to spread. Pawpaw spreads by sending up suckers from the roots, and a wild patch is often all one plant, which is why lone patches fruit poorly.Remove root suckers if you do not want a spreading clonal patch. Pawpaw colonizes by suckers, and a wild patch is often one genotype, which is why isolated patches fruit poorly.

Winter dormancy

A bare, resting tree. Over these cold months the tree is collecting the winter cold it needs (an estimated 400 hours or more) before it will bloom in spring. Not much to see, but the cold matters.A leafless tree at rest. Through these cold months the tree banks the winter chill it needs (an estimated 400 or more hours) to break dormancy and bloom in spring. Little to see, but the cold is doing essential work.

Not much to do. An established tree needs very little water now. Rake up fallen leaves to keep leaf spots down, and get ready to hand-pollinate when the tree blooms in spring.Little is required. Established trees need minimal water now. Clear fallen leaves to reduce the minor leaf spotting, and plan your bloom-time hand-pollination for the coming spring.

FROM PLANT · The winter cold is setting up next spring's flowers. Pawpaw needs an estimated 400 hours or more of winter cold before it will bloom properly.Winter chill is banking next year's bloom. Pawpaw needs an estimated 400 or more chill hours to break dormancy and flower properly in spring.

FROM PLANT · Rake up and remove fallen leaves over winter to keep the minor leaf spots down, and start planning next spring's hand-pollinating.Rake and remove fallen leaves over winter to reduce the minor leaf spotting, and plan next spring's hand-pollination now.

Dormant pruning (light)

Bare branches, so you can see the shape. Pawpaw needs only light pruning: this is the time to look over the tree and take out problem branches before the buds swell.Bare branches that show the frame clearly. Pawpaw needs only light pruning: this is the moment to read the central-leader shape and remove problem wood before buds swell.

Prune lightly in late winter: cut out dead, diseased, broken, and crossing branches, and keep the main upright stem and last year's wood, which is where the fruit comes. Do not cut it back hard the way you would a peach. Make clean cuts.Prune lightly in late dormancy: remove dead, diseased, broken, and crossing wood, and preserve the central leader and the previous year's fruiting wood. Avoid the hard renewal cuts a peach needs. Make clean cuts.

FROM PLANT · Prune pawpaw only lightly in late winter: take out dead, diseased, broken, and crossing branches and keep the one main stem. It fruits on last year's wood, so do not cut it back hard.Prune pawpaw only lightly in late dormancy: remove dead, diseased, broken, and crossing wood and keep the central leader. It fruits on the previous year's wood, so avoid hard heading cuts.

Bloom and pollination

Deep maroon, cup-shaped flowers opening along the branches, often before the leaves, with a faint sour or musty smell. This is the most important time for fruit: pawpaw cannot pollinate itself, and the flies and beetles that pollinate it are not dependable.Deep maroon, cup-shaped flowers opening along the branches, often before or as the leaves emerge, with a faint fermented or carrion-like scent. This is the make-or-break window for fruit, because pawpaw is self-incompatible and its fly and beetle pollinators are unreliable.

Hand-pollinate to get a real crop: use a small soft brush to take fresh pollen from the newly opened flowers of one tree and dab it onto the sticky center of the flowers on a different tree. Do this several times during bloom. Watch for a late frost on the open flowers.Hand-pollinate for a good crop: with a small soft brush, collect fresh pollen from the just-opened flowers of one tree and dab it onto the ripe, sticky stigmas of a genetically different tree. Repeat over the bloom period. Watch for late frost on the open flowers.

FROM PLANT · Hand-pollinate to get a real crop. With a small brush, move fresh pollen from one tree's newly opened flowers to the sticky centers of the flowers on a different tree, and do it several times during bloom.Hand-pollinate for a real crop. With a small brush, move fresh pollen from one tree's just-opened flowers to the ripe, sticky stigmas of a genetically different tree, and repeat over bloom.

FROM PLANT · Pawpaw is pollinated by flies and beetles, not bees: the maroon flowers give off a faint sour, musty smell to attract them, and natural fruit set is unreliable, which is why hand-pollinating helps so much.Pawpaw is fly- and beetle-pollinated, not bee-pollinated: the maroon flowers smell faintly of fermentation to draw those insects, and natural set is unreliable, which is why hand pollination helps so much.

Fruit set and thinning

Small green fruits, often in clusters of several from one flower. Where hand pollination worked well, a branch can carry a heavy load, and the big fruits can weigh it down.Small green fruits, often in clusters of two to nine from a single flower. Where hand pollination worked well, a branch may carry a heavy load that can break under the weight of the large fruit.

Thinning is optional and much lighter than for a peach: on a young tree that set heavily, remove some clusters so the fruit grows well and the branches are not overloaded. On most trees the set is light enough that there is little to thin.Thinning is optional and lighter than for peach: on a heavily set young tree, remove some clusters so the fruit sizes well and limbs are not overloaded. On most trees, poor natural set means there is little to thin.

FROM PLANT · Thinning is optional and much lighter than for a peach. On a young tree that set heavily, remove some clusters so the big fruit grows well and the branches are not overloaded; most trees set lightly enough that you can skip it.Thinning is optional and much lighter than for peach. On a heavily set young tree, remove some clusters so the large fruit sizes well and limbs are not overloaded; most trees set lightly enough to skip it.

Harvest

Fruit that softens like a ripe peach or avocado, gives when gently pressed, and smells strongly sweet; the skin may get brown or black speckles, which is normal. Ripe fruit starts to drop, and animals find it fast.Fruit that softens like a ripe peach or avocado, gives to gentle pressure, and turns intensely fragrant; the skin may take on brown or black speckles, which is normal ripening. Ripe fruit begins to drop and is quickly found by wildlife.

Pick fruit as soon as it starts to soften, going over the tree several times during the short ripening window; it will finish ripening indoors. Handle it gently, because ripe pawpaw bruises easily and only keeps a few days. Eat it fresh soon, refrigerate briefly, or scoop out and freeze the pulp.Pick fruit as it just begins to soften, in several passes over the short ripening window; it can be finished indoors. Handle gently, since ripe pawpaw bruises easily and keeps only days. Eat fresh quickly, refrigerate briefly, or scoop and freeze the pulp.

FROM PLANT · Pick fruit as it just starts to soften and gives to a gentle squeeze; it will finish ripening indoors. Brown or black speckles on the skin are normal. Ripe pawpaw only keeps a few days and bruises easily.Pick as fruit just begins to soften and gives to gentle pressure; it finishes indoors. Brown or black skin speckles are normal ripening. Ripe pawpaw keeps only a few days and bruises easily.

FROM PLANT · Get to the fruit before animals do, and save the extra: check the tree every day during the short ripening window, keep ripe fruit in the fridge only briefly, and scoop out and freeze the pulp for anything beyond a few days.Beat the wildlife and preserve the glut: pick over the tree daily through the short window, refrigerate ripe fruit only briefly, and scoop and freeze the pulp for anything beyond a few days.

The specs

Care guide

The numbers that matter, at a glance.

Sunlight

full sun (part shade the first year or two) · 6-8 hrs/day

Water

moderate to high

Spacing

96-180 inches

Soil

loam

Soil pH

5.5 to 7

Container OK?

Germination temp

75-85°F

Soil chemistry

Soil pH for pawpaw

Preferred

5.5 to 7

Tolerated

5 to 7.5

Pawpaw grows best in slightly acidic soil, about pH 5.5 to 7.0 (pH is just a measure of how acidic or alkaline the soil is). Test your soil before planting and adjust slowly if you need to: garden lime raises the pH if the soil is too acidic, and elemental sulfur lowers it if the soil is too alkaline. Mix any of this in before you plant, because pH changes slowly and is much easier to fix before a permanent tree goes in. Pawpaw dislikes very alkaline, chalky soils.Pawpaw does best in a slightly acidic soil, roughly pH 5.5 to 7.0. Test the soil before planting and adjust gradually if needed: lime raises a too-acidic pH, while elemental sulfur lowers one that is too alkaline. Work amendments in ahead of planting, since pH shifts slowly and is far easier to correct before the permanent tree is in the ground. Pawpaw performs poorly on high-pH, calcareous soils.

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Steady hand on the hose

Watering

When & how much

Frequency

Pawpaw likes steady moisture, so water deeply and regularly, and never let a young tree go dry. For the first two years, plan on a deep soak once or twice a week, easing to about once a week for an older tree in summer heat, adjusting for rain and your soil. It likes more water than most fruit trees, but it still cannot sit in soggy soil, so aim for damp, not waterlogged. In winter, when the tree is resting, it needs much less and rain usually covers it.Pawpaw wants consistent soil moisture, so water deeply and regularly rather than sparingly, and never let a young tree dry out. Plan on a deep soak once or twice a week through the first two seasons while roots establish, easing toward weekly for a bearing tree in summer heat, always adjusted for rain and soil. It is more moisture-loving than most fruit trees, but it still will not tolerate standing water, so keep the soil damp, not soggy. Through winter dormancy the need drops and rainfall usually suffices.

Amount

Each time you water, give a deep soak that reaches all the way down to the roots, not just a splash on top. A young tree wants about 5 gallons per soak. An older, fruiting tree wants roughly an inch of water a week through the growing season, and more when it is hot. A thick layer of mulch over the roots really helps pawpaw, holding in the steady moisture it likes and keeping the roots cool.Water deeply each time so moisture reaches the full root depth rather than wetting only the surface. For an establishing tree, that is on the order of 5 gallons per soak; for a bearing tree, aim for roughly the equivalent of an inch of water per week through the growing season, more in heat. A thick organic mulch over the root zone is especially valuable on pawpaw, holding the even moisture it prefers and keeping the shallow feeder roots cool.

Method

Water at the ground around the roots with a drip line or soaker hose, spreading it out to the edge of the branches rather than just at the trunk. Try not to spray water over the leaves, since wet foliage can bring on minor leaf spots; put the water on the soil. The feeder roots run shallow, so a wide, mulched, evenly damp area around the tree suits it better than soaking only right at the trunk.Water at the root zone with drip or a soaker hose, out toward the drip line rather than only at the trunk. Overhead watering that wets the foliage is best avoided, since it favors the minor leaf spotting pawpaw can get; deliver water to the soil. Because the young feeder roots run shallow under the natural leaf litter, a wide, mulched, evenly moist root area serves the tree better than a narrow deep well at the trunk.

Signs of trouble

Too much water

Soil that stays too wet, or drains poorly, shows up as yellowing leaves, wilting that does not go away even when the soil is wet, and a tree slowly going downhill, because the roots cannot breathe and start to rot. Soil that never dries out between waterings is your warning. Pawpaw likes steady moisture, but not water sitting around the roots.Waterlogged, poorly drained soil shows as yellowing leaves, wilting that persists even in wet ground, and a generally declining tree, since pawpaw roots suffocate and rot when the soil stays saturated. Soggy soil that never dries between waterings is the warning to act on: pawpaw wants steady moisture, but not standing water.

Too little water

Too little water shows as wilting and drooping, dull leaves, brown or scorched leaf edges (worse in sun and wind), and leaves dropping early in a dry stretch. A young pawpaw is very sensitive to drying out, and the fruit stays small if the tree gets too dry while the pawpaws are filling out. Catch it early, because a dried-out young tree can die.Underwatering shows as wilting and drooping, dull leaves, browning or scorched leaf margins (worse in sun and wind), and early leaf drop in a dry spell. A young pawpaw is especially unforgiving of drought, and the fruit sizes poorly if the tree runs short of water while the crop is filling. Catch the dry stress early, since a stressed young tree can be lost outright.

Feeding rhythm

Feeding

Frequency

2-4x in the first half of the season while young; 1x per year once established

Type

balanced granular (e.g. 10-10-10)

When to start

spring as growth begins, through early summer

Pawpaw does not need heavy feeding. Scatter a balanced fertilizer evenly on the soil around the tree out to where the branches reach, keep it off the trunk, and water it in. Young trees do best with a little food given often, so feed lightly every few weeks through the first half of the season while the tree is getting going. An older tree needs just one spring feeding, or none at all if the soil is good. Stop by midsummer so the tree is not pushed into soft growth that winter can damage. A layer of mulch does a lot of the work.Pawpaw is a light feeder. Spread a balanced fertilizer evenly around the root zone out to the drip line, keep it off the trunk, and water it in. Young trees respond well to a little fed often, so a light balanced feeding every few weeks through the first half of the season speeds establishment; an established tree needs only a single spring application, if any, on decent soil. Stop feeding by midsummer so no soft late growth is pushed into fall. A ring of organic mulch supplies much of what the tree needs.

N · P · K = 10-10-10

A balanced fertilizer like 10-10-10 (the three numbers are nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium) works well for pawpaw, and on rich soil it may need none. For young trees, a balanced feed given lightly every few weeks in the first half of the season helps them settle in. Do not overdo the nitrogen, the first number, because too much pushes leafy growth instead of a strong frame.A balanced ratio such as 10-10-10 suits pawpaw; on fertile, organic-rich ground it may need no feeding at all. Kentucky State recommends a balanced feed (a 20-20-20 is often cited) applied lightly and often to young trees during the first half of the season. Avoid heavy nitrogen, which pushes soft growth at the expense of a sturdy framework.

Try 10-10-10 balanced fertilizer

Who grows well together

Companion planting

The most important companion for a pawpaw is another pawpaw. Pawpaw cannot pollinate itself, so a single tree, or a group of trees that are all the same variety or all suckers from one plant, will flower but set little or no fruit. Plant at least two genetically different pawpaws (two different named varieties, or two or more seedlings) close together so their flowers can cross-pollinate. Beyond that second tree, what matters most is the root zone: keep grass and weeds pulled back from under a young tree, since lawn competes hard for water, and remember pawpaw is a woodland tree that wants shade over its roots and its young leaves for the first year or two. The companion that decides whether a pawpaw fruits is a second, genetically distinct pawpaw. The species is self-incompatible, so a lone tree, or a block of one clone (a named variety and its own root suckers are genetically identical), blooms but sets almost nothing. Plant two or more different cultivars or seedlings within a short distance so the fly and beetle pollinators can move pollen between distinct trees. Past that, pawpaw's interactions are about the root zone, not classic vegetable pairings: clear turf from under a young tree, which competes for moisture, and honor its woodland nature by shading the roots and the sun-sensitive young foliage through establishment.

Other

A second, genetically distinct pawpaw

This is the single most consequential planting decision for pawpaw. Because the species is self-incompatible, a second tree of a different genetic identity is not optional for reliable fruit, it is the prerequisite. Two named cultivars, or two or more seedlings, planted near each other give the fly and beetle pollinators distinct pollen sources to shuttle between. Keep them close, within about 30 feet, since these pollinators do not range far, and be aware that suckers from one tree do not count as a second tree. Research-backed

Keep apart from

A single tree or an all-one-clone pawpaw patch Relying on one tree, or on a thicket that is really one clone spread by root suckers, is the classic reason a healthy, heavy-blooming pawpaw sets almost no fruit. Every flower in a single-genotype stand is incompatible with every other, so no amount of pollinator activity helps. Wild pawpaw patches are often exactly this, one plant colonizing an area, which is why they can flower profusely yet fruit poorly. The fix is genetic diversity: interplant a different cultivar or seedling, and do not mistake a tree's own suckers for a pollen partner. Research-backed

Provenance tagged inline · see methodology for the labeling system Key

Harvest signals

When to pick

A pawpaw is ripe when it softens like a ripe peach or avocado and gives to a gentle squeeze, smells strongly sweet, and often gets brown or black speckles or blotches on the skin (that is normal ripening, not rot). Ripe fruit starts to drop off the tree. Because ripe fruit is delicate and animals grab it fast, most people pick fruit as it just begins to soften and let it finish ripening indoors over a few days. It ripens from about August in warm areas to October in cold ones, over a short window, so pick over the tree a few times.A pawpaw is ripe when it softens like a ripe peach or avocado and yields to gentle pressure, turns intensely fragrant, and often develops brown or black skin speckles or blotches (normal ripening, not spoilage). Ripe fruit begins to drop from the tree. Because tree-ripe fruit is fragile and quickly taken by wildlife, most growers pick as fruit just begins to soften and finish ripening indoors over a few days. Ripening runs from roughly August in the South to October in the North, over a short window, so pick over the tree in several passes.

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Yield

What to expect

A grown pawpaw can give roughly 25 to 50 pounds of fruit in a good year, with each fruit weighing from about 6 ounces to a pound. How much you get depends a lot on pollination, since poor fruit set, not the tree itself, is usually what limits the crop. A well-pollinated tree, often one you hand-pollinate, carries far more than one left to the flies and beetles.A mature pawpaw commonly yields on the order of 25 to 50 pounds of fruit in a good year, with individual fruits ranging from about 6 ounces to a pound. Yield swings widely with pollination success, since poor fruit set, not the tree's capacity, is usually the limit; a well-pollinated tree (often hand-pollinated) carries far more than one left to flies and beetles.

Grafted trees usually start fruiting around year 4 and reach full production by about years 7 to 8; seedlings take longer, often 5 to 8 years to the first fruit. How much you get depends most on having two or more different trees and on pollinating them, more than on feeding or pruning.Grafted trees typically begin bearing around year 4 and build toward full production by roughly years 7 to 8; seedlings take longer, often 5 to 8 years to first fruit. Peak yield depends most on having two or more genetically distinct trees and on pollination effort, more than on feeding or pruning. Do not expect fruit for several years: pawpaw is slow to start, with grafted trees fruiting around year 4 and seedlings later. Pick off any early flowers so a young tree builds roots and branches instead, and spend the early years giving it shade, steady water, and a second different tree for pollination later on.Expect no fruit for several years: pawpaw is slow to bear, with grafted trees starting around year 4 and seedlings later. Remove any early flowers so a young tree invests in roots and framework, and focus the early years on shade, steady moisture, and establishing two genetically distinct trees for future cross-pollination.

What changes yield

two or more genetically distinct trees (cross-pollination)pollination success (hand pollination)pawpaw peduncle borer pressure at bloomlate-frost damage to early bloomconsistent soil moisturetree age and establishmentshade for young trees

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Off the vine

Storing your harvest

Room temp

Ripe pawpaw does not keep. A soft, ripe pawpaw lasts only about 2 to 3 days on the counter before it gets mushy and the flavor goes off. Fruit picked firm but full-sized will soften over a few days indoors; once it gives to a gentle squeeze and smells strongly sweet, eat it or put it in the fridge right away.Ripe pawpaw is one of the most perishable of all fruits. A tree-ripe, soft pawpaw holds at room temperature for only about 2 to 3 days before the flesh over-softens and the flavor turns. Fruit picked firm-but-mature will finish softening on the counter over a few days; once it yields to gentle pressure and smells intensely fragrant, eat it or refrigerate it promptly.

Fridge

The fridge buys a little time. A fully ripe pawpaw keeps refrigerated for about 3 to 5 days, a week at most. The handier trick: fruit picked full-sized but still firm can sit in the fridge for up to two or three weeks, then be taken out to ripen on the counter, which helps you spread out a harvest that otherwise comes all at once.Refrigeration buys a little time. A fully ripe pawpaw keeps in the fridge for roughly 3 to 5 days, up to about a week at most. More useful: fruit picked mature but still firm can be held in the refrigerator for up to about two to three weeks and then brought out to ripen at room temperature, which is the practical way to stretch a short, all-at-once harvest.

Freezer

Freezing the pulp is the usual way to save pawpaw. Scoop the ripe flesh out of the skin, take out the big seeds, and freeze the pulp in labeled bags with the air squeezed out; use it within about a year. The frozen pulp is great in quick breads, ice cream, custard, and smoothies, and is how most people keep a big harvest. Do not freeze the whole fruit.Freezing the pulp is the standard way to keep pawpaw. Scoop the ripe flesh from the skin, remove the large seeds, and freeze the pulp in labeled bags with the air pressed out; use it within about a year. Frozen pulp is excellent in quick breads, ice cream, custards, and smoothies, and is how most growers preserve a glut. Do not freeze whole fruit.

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When something goes wrong

Common problems

The tree flowered a lot but gave almost no pawpawsThe tree bloomed heavily but set little or no fruit

01 of 04

What happened A pawpaw covered in flowers that gives almost no fruit is the most common pawpaw letdown, and it is almost always about pollination, not the tree's health. Pawpaw cannot pollinate itself, so one tree, or a patch that is really one plant spread by suckers, has no pollen it can use. And the flies and beetles that pollinate it are unreliable, so even with two trees the fruit set is often poor. The fix is to plant at least two different trees and to hand-pollinate the flowers with a small brush during bloom.A pawpaw covered in flowers that sets almost nothing is the single most common pawpaw disappointment, and it is almost always a pollination problem, not a health problem. Pawpaw is self-incompatible, so a lone tree, or a stand that is really one clone spread by root suckers, has no compatible pollen. On top of that, its natural pollinators, various flies and beetles, are inefficient and undependable, so even with two trees natural set is often poor. The fix is genetic diversity plus effort: grow at least two genetically distinct trees, and hand-pollinate the flowers with a small brush during bloom. Next season Plant at least two different pawpaws that bloom at the same time, and hand-pollinate them with a small brush during bloom, moving pollen from one tree to the other.Grow at least two genetically distinct pawpaws with overlapping bloom, and hand-pollinate with a small brush during bloom, moving pollen between the different trees.

A young tree's leaves burned, or it struggled in full sunA young tree's leaves scorched or the tree failed in full sun

02 of 04

What happened A young pawpaw with brown, burned leaves or one that struggled was probably planted right into full sun. Pawpaw grows under other trees in the woods, and its young leaves burn easily in strong sun. People used to full-sun fruit trees often skip the shade step and lose or stunt a young pawpaw. The fix is to shade the tree for its first year or two, keep it evenly moist, and only give it full sun once it is established, which is when it fruits best.A young pawpaw with brown, scorched leaves or general decline was very likely planted straight into full sun. Pawpaw is a woodland understory tree, and its young foliage is genuinely sun-sensitive: seedling shoots can scorch in strong light. Growers used to full-sun fruit trees often skip the shade step and lose or set back a young pawpaw. The remedy is to shade the tree for its first one to two seasons, keep it consistently moist, and only expose it to full sun once it is established, which is when it fruits best. Next season Shade a newly planted pawpaw for its first year or two and keep it evenly watered; let it have full sun only after it is established.Shade a newly planted pawpaw for its first one to two seasons and keep it consistently moist; move it to full sun only after it is established.

A newly planted tree did not takeA newly planted tree failed to establish

03 of 04

What happened A pawpaw that never leafed out or slowly died after planting was often a bare-root or field-dug tree, or one whose roots were broken up when planting. Pawpaw has a deep, easily broken taproot and hates having its roots disturbed, so it takes far better from a potted tree with its roots kept whole, planted in spring, than from a bare-root one. Planting too deep, in soggy ground, or letting it dry out also kills young trees. The fix is a potted tree, spring planting, keeping the root ball whole, good drainage, and steady moisture with shade.A pawpaw that never leafed out or slowly died after planting was often a bare-root or field-dug tree, or one whose root ball was broken up at planting. Pawpaw has a deep, brittle taproot and resents root disturbance, so it establishes far more reliably from an intact container root ball set out in spring than from bare-root stock. Planting too deep, in soggy ground, or letting the young tree dry out also causes failure. The remedy is a potted tree, a spring planting, an undisturbed root ball, good drainage, and steady moisture with shade. Next season Plant a potted (not bare-root) tree in spring, keep the roots whole, make sure the soil drains, and keep the young tree shaded and evenly watered.Plant a potted (not bare-root) tree in spring, keep the root ball intact, ensure good drainage, and keep the young tree shaded and evenly moist.

The fruit got mushy and spoiled almost right awayThe fruit went soft and spoiled almost immediately

04 of 04

What happened Pawpaw that turned to mush a day or two after ripening is not a problem with your fruit, it is just how pawpaw is: ripe fruit is one of the most perishable fruits and only keeps a few days. Treating it like a peach or apple, leaving it on the counter or expecting it to keep, leads to fast spoiling, and animals often get tree-ripe fruit first. The fix is to pick fruit as it just starts to soften and ripen it indoors, eat it within a few days, keep ripe fruit in the fridge only briefly, and scoop out and freeze the pulp to save the rest.Pawpaw picked or left tree-ripe that turned to mush within a day or two is not a defect, it is the nature of the fruit: ripe pawpaw is one of the most perishable of all fruits and keeps only a few days. Treating it like a peach or apple, leaving ripe fruit on the counter or expecting it to hold, leads to fast spoilage and to wildlife taking tree-ripe fruit first. The remedy is to pick as fruit just begins to soften and finish ripening indoors, eat it within a few days, refrigerate ripe fruit only briefly, and scoop and freeze the pulp for anything longer. Next season Pick fruit as it just starts to soften and ripen it indoors; eat it within a few days, keep ripe fruit in the fridge only briefly, and freeze the pulp to keep it longer.Pick fruit as it just begins to soften and ripen indoors; eat within a few days, refrigerate ripe fruit briefly, and freeze the pulp for longer keeping.

The usual suspects

Pests & diseases

Pests

Pawpaw peduncle borer

P · 01

Symptoms Flowers wilt, turn black, and fall off right when they should be turning into fruit. If you open a fallen flower you may find a tiny pale caterpillar tunneling inside the flower stalk. In a bad year it can ruin most of the flowers, so a tree that bloomed heavily still gives you very few pawpaws.Open flowers wilt, blacken, and drop just as they should be setting fruit. Splitting a dropped flower reveals a small pale caterpillar tunneling in the fleshy flower stalk (the peduncle) and floral tissue. In a bad year the borer can destroy the majority of a tree's blossoms, so a heavy bloom yields almost no fruit. Cause The caterpillar of a small moth called the pawpaw peduncle borer. It burrows into the soft tissue of the flower, which makes the flower die and fall. How bad it is changes a lot from one year to the next.Larvae of the pawpaw peduncle borer (Talponia plummeriana), a small moth. The larva, only about 5 millimeters long, bores into the fleshy tissues of the flower, causing it to wither and drop before it can set fruit. Populations vary sharply year to year. Organic treatment There is no easy spray for this on a home tree once the caterpillars are inside the flowers. The best thing you can do is pick up and throw away the fallen, damaged flowers to lower their numbers, and hand-pollinate the healthy flowers so you still get fruit. It does not hurt the tree itself, and it is usually less of a problem the next year.There is no practical spray for a backyard tree once larvae are inside the flowers. The workable response is sanitation: gather and destroy dropped, infested flowers to reduce the local population, and lean on hand pollination of the healthy flowers to secure a crop despite the losses. Damage is rarely fatal to the tree and often eases the following year. Prevention Rake up and remove fallen flowers so the borer cannot keep its cycle going under the tree. Because pawpaw already sets fruit unreliably, the best insurance is to hand-pollinate the good flowers so you get fruit from the ones the borer does not reach.Keep the ground under the tree clear of fallen flowers and debris where the borer can complete its cycle. A tree with two genetic partners and hand pollination will still set a crop from the flowers the borer misses, so protecting fruit set is more about pollination insurance than eradication.

Zebra swallowtail caterpillars

P · 02

Symptoms A few young leaves chewed here and there, with a striped green-and-black caterpillar on them. The damage is minor and just cosmetic; there are never enough of them to strip a tree.Chewed young leaves, usually only a few at a time, with a green-and-black banded caterpillar feeding on the foliage. Damage is almost always light and cosmetic; the caterpillars never appear in numbers large enough to defoliate a tree. Cause The caterpillar of the zebra swallowtail butterfly, which can only grow on pawpaw leaves. It feeds on the young leaves but never in big numbers. This is really a bonus, not a pest problem: the beautiful butterfly needs pawpaw to survive.Larvae of the zebra swallowtail butterfly (Protographium marcellus), for which pawpaw is the sole larval host plant. The caterpillars feed only on young pawpaw foliage and never in great numbers, so they are far more a delight than a threat: the striking adult butterfly depends entirely on pawpaw. Organic treatment Do nothing. The leaf nibbling is harmless, and these are the caterpillars of a lovely native butterfly that has nowhere else to live. Just enjoy them.No treatment is warranted. The feeding is negligible, and controlling it would remove the caterpillars of a native butterfly that has no other host. Simply leave them be. Prevention None needed. A healthy pawpaw is not bothered by them, and the butterfly is one of the nicest reasons to grow the tree.None needed or advised. A healthy pawpaw shrugs off the light feeding, and the butterfly is a welcome part of having the tree.

Fruit-raiding wildlife (raccoons, opossums, squirrels)

P · 03

Symptoms Ripe or almost-ripe fruit vanishes from the tree or turns up chewed on the ground, usually overnight, just as it gets soft. The strong ripe smell draws animals, and they often get to the fruit before you do.Ripe and nearly ripe fruit disappears from the tree or is found half-eaten on the ground, often overnight, right as it softens. Because pawpaw ripens over a short window and soft fruit is highly aromatic, animals frequently harvest it before the gardener does. Cause Raccoons, opossums, squirrels, and other animals love the strong smell of ripening pawpaw and will help themselves. Deer are the exception: they avoid pawpaw leaves and fruit, so it is the fruit-eaters you are competing with.Raccoons, opossums, squirrels, and other wildlife are strongly attracted to the intense aroma of ripening pawpaw. Deer, by contrast, avoid the foliage and fruit, so the competition here is from fruit-eating mammals, not browsers. Organic treatment Get to the fruit first. Pick pawpaws when they are full-sized and just beginning to soften, then let them finish ripening indoors instead of leaving soft fruit on the tree overnight. Check the tree every day while it is ripening. Netting or a baffle on the trunk can help if animals are a big problem.Beat the animals to the fruit: pick pawpaws firm but full-sized as they begin to soften and finish ripening indoors, rather than leaving tree-ripe fruit hanging overnight. Check the tree daily through the harvest window. Netting or trunk baffles help where pressure is heavy. Prevention Pick fruit promptly and do not let ripe pawpaws pile up on the tree or the ground. Since the fruit does not keep long anyway, picking it as soon as it starts to soften and ripening it indoors both saves it from animals and lets you manage it better.Harvest promptly and do not let ripe fruit accumulate on the tree or ground. Since pawpaw is so perishable anyway, picking at the first give and ripening indoors both protects the crop from wildlife and gives you better control over the fruit.

Diseases

Phyllosticta leaf and fruit spot

D · 01

Symptoms Small tan or brown spots on the leaves, and sometimes dark surface blotches on the fruit skin. It looks worse than it is: the spots are just on the surface, do not harm the tree, and the fruit inside is fine. It shows up most in warm, wet, muggy summers.Small tan-to-brown spots on the leaves and, at times, superficial dark blotches on the fruit skin. The spotting is cosmetic: it does not defoliate a healthy tree or spoil the flesh, and the fruit inside remains sound. Worst in warm, wet, humid summers with crowded, poorly ventilated foliage. Cause A leaf-spot fungus that spreads in warm, damp weather, especially where leaves stay wet and crowded. Apart from this minor spotting, pawpaw has very few disease problems.Fungi in the Phyllosticta group (and similar leaf-spot fungi). Spores spread in warm, humid, wet weather, and infection is favored by dense canopies that stay wet. Pawpaw is otherwise notably free of serious disease. Organic treatment No spray is needed for what is only a cosmetic problem. Give trees room for air to move, rake up and remove the spotted fallen leaves in autumn, and keep the tree healthy. The fruit itself is fine to eat.No fungicide is warranted for what is a cosmetic issue. Improve airflow by not crowding trees, rake and remove fallen spotted leaves at season's end to reduce carryover, and keep the tree vigorous. The fruit is unaffected inside and fully edible. Prevention Give trees enough space for air to move, avoid wetting the leaves when you water, and clean up fallen leaves in fall. That keeps the minor spotting down. Pawpaw does not need a regular spray schedule.Space and site trees for good air movement, avoid overhead wetting of the foliage, and clear fallen leaves in autumn. These reduce the minor spotting; no routine spray program is needed for pawpaw.

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Seasoned

Where to plant next year

Crop rotation

Pick a spot where the pawpaw can stay for good: it is a permanent tree that can spread by suckers, and it wants deep, moist, well-drained, slightly acidic soil out of frost pockets, with shade while young. If you do not want it to spread into a patch, just pull or mow off the suckers that come up from the roots.Site a pawpaw where it can stay: a permanent, potentially suckering tree wants a deep, moist, well-drained, slightly acidic spot out of frost pockets, with shade for the first year or two. If you do not want a spreading clonal patch, remove root suckers as they appear or keep the tree mown around.

Family

Annonaceae (Asimina)

Avoid following

You do not rotate a pawpaw the way you rotate vegetables, because it stays in one spot for many years and can even spread on its own by sending up suckers from the roots. Pawpaw does not have the soil-disease replant problems that peaches and other stone fruits do, so what matters is the site, not what grew there before: avoid low, frosty dips that kill the spring flowers, avoid soggy ground, and give a young tree the shade and steady moisture it would have in the woods.Annual crop rotation does not apply to pawpaw: it is a permanent tree that holds its site for decades and, as a clonal colonizer, may spread by root suckers well beyond where you planted it. Pawpaw has no well-documented replant-disease complex like the stone fruits, so the site concerns are cultural rather than rotational: avoid low frost pockets that kill the early bloom, avoid heavy or waterlogged ground, and give a young tree the shade and steady moisture of its woodland origins.

Plant after

any deep, fertile, well-drained, slightly acidic site out of the worst frost pockets, ideally with light shade for the young tree

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Every date, temperature, spacing, and recommendation on this page is sourced from university cooperative extension publications, peer-reviewed agricultural research, NOAA climate data, and direct extension calendars. Where claims are softer (traditional gardening wisdom not formally documented), we say so.

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Traditional Time-tested gardening wisdom, limited formal research support

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