Beginner Seasoned
Pick your zone and the dates re-calibrate.
The Guide Crops Vol. 003

Cherry Tomato

in Zone 9, this week
Indeterminate

The easiest tomato to start with, and there's a specific reason why. Most cherry tomatoes are indeterminate, meaning the plant keeps producing new flower clusters and fruit continuously from early summer until frost, instead of ripening everything at once and stopping. One plant can give you handfuls of tomatoes over 10-14 weeks. That same continuous growth habit also means the plant recovers better from uneven watering or a missed feeding than a tomato that puts everything into one big harvest. Modern hybrid varieties like Sun Gold and Sweet 100 also have built-in disease resistance, which lowers the chances of losing a plant to blight. If you're in a cold zone (3-5), look for short-season varieties labeled under 60 days to maturity. If you're in a warm zone (9-11), you can get a second round of tomatoes by planting again in late summer. For containers or small spaces, compact varieties like Patio Choice or Tumbling Tom are the right pick. Cherry tomatoes are the most forgiving class in the tomato family for first-season growers, for a specific biological reason: most are indeterminate, meaning they continue producing new flower clusters and fruit continuously from first flowering until frost kills the plant. A single healthy plant can yield fruit over 10-14 weeks rather than all at once. The category spans a wide range: round cherries, pear-shaped types, elongated Romas, and cocktail-sized varieties, with fruit sizes from under half an inch to golf-ball. Most modern hybrid cherries (Sun Gold, Sweet 100, Supersweet 100) are also bred for disease tolerance, which further lowers the failure risk. Compact determinate cultivars such as Patio Choice and Tumbling Tom are suited to containers and small-space gardens. In warm climates (zones 9-11), second plantings in late summer can extend harvest into winter. In the coldest growing zones (3-5), short-season varieties (under 60 days to maturity) are the practical choice.

Harvesting Now · Through Dec 10
Cherry Tomato mature plant
Fig. 01 · Cherry Tomato, mature Zone 9
Mature in
55-70d
from transplant
Sunlight
Full sun
6-8 hrs daily
Water
Regular
1-2 inches / week
Spacing
2 to 3 ft
between plants
Soil pH
6-6.8
slightly acidic
Today · in your zone

What's happening right now

October 21 · Zone 9 · Stage 04 · Flowering

Your cherry tomato harvest window is open through Dec 10.

Seasoned
Microclimate · Zone 9a vs 9b

Your zone, at a finer grain

Zone 9 averages a last frost around March 1. Within Zone 9, the colder half (9a, winters down to 20°F) runs about a week later. The warmer half (9b, winters down to 25°F) runs about a week earlier. The plant app picks your subzone from your ZIP.

SubzoneLast springFirst fallGrowing daysWinter minFruits reliably
9aMar 8Nov 24~26120-25°FYes · two seasons
9bFeb 28Nov 30~27525-30°FYes · two seasons

Averages from 8 weather stations per subzone, drawn from NOAA 1991-2020 Climate Normals. Your actual frost date can vary by up to two weeks based on elevation, proximity to water, and local topography.

Source: NOAA 1991-2020 Climate Normals Methodology
Your climate region in Zone 9
The season at a glance

Planting calendar

In Zone 9, cherry tomato can be planted April through May. Start indoors Feb 18 - Mar 4. Harvest runs June through November.

Jan
Feb
Mar
Apr
May
Jun
Jul
Aug
Sep
Oct
Nov
Dec
plant
too cold
indoors
indoors
plant
plant
too late
too late
too late
too late
too early
too early
too cold
harvest
harvest
harvest
harvest
harvest
harvest
harvest
indoors
plant out
harvest
Above-ground cropBest planted on a above ground moon
The season, mapped

Seed to garden

Start seeds indoors 6 to 8 weeks before your last frost date (look yours up if you don't know it, as it varies by 6 to 8 weeks across zones). When you transplant, dig a deeper hole than the pot and bury the stem right up to the lowest set of leaves, as new roots form all along the buried stem and make for a stronger, more drought-tolerant plant from the start.Start indoors 6-8 weeks before last frost. Harden off over 7-10 days before transplanting. Transplant deep: bury stem up to lowest leaves to encourage roots.

  1. 01
    Sow indoors →
    Feb 18 - Mar 4
    Start about 6 weeks before your last frost
  2. 02
    Transplant out →
    Apr 1 - May 1
    After hardening off
  3. 03
    First harvest
    From Jun 2
    55-70 days from transplant
Start method
Indoors
Soil temp
70-85°F
Hardening off
7-10 days
These plants were raised indoors and have never felt wind, direct sun, or cool nights. Hardening off means introducing them to outdoor life slowly over 7 to 10 days, starting with a few hours outside in a sheltered spot the first day, then more time and more sun each day. Skip this step and the plants will sulk for weeks after transplanting, or the leaves will scorch on the first sunny day. It is not optional for tomatoes.
From seed to fruit

The growing journey

Stage 04 · Flowering
01
Germination
Days 5-10
Tiny white root emerging from the seed, then a pale curved shoot pushing up through the soil. The shoot will straighten and the first two small leaves will unfold at the top.Tiny white root emerging from the seed, then a pale shoot pushing upward through the soil.
Tomato seeds need warm soil to sprout, about as warm as a sunny windowsill, or 75°F if you have a soil thermometer. A heating mat under your seed tray is the easiest way to get there. Cover the tray with a clear plastic lid until the first green shoots appear, then take it off.Keep soil temperature in the 70-85°F range. A heat mat makes a real difference for staying in the optimal zone. Cover with a humidity dome until sprouts appear.
FROM PLANT · Bottom heat is the single biggest factor in germination speed. If you have a heat mat, use it; if not, the top of a refrigerator or any spot that stays around 75°F works well. Most cherry tomato seeds sprout in 5 to 7 days with steady warmth.Bottom heat is the single biggest factor in germination speed. A heat mat, the top of your refrigerator, or anywhere consistently warm works well. Most tomato seeds germinate in 5-7 days at 75°F.
FROM PLANT · Cover your seed tray with a plastic dome or cling wrap until the first sprout appears, then remove it immediately. The dome traps humidity to keep the seed surface moist during germination, but once the shoot emerges, that same warm, still air is the ideal environment for damping off, a fungal problem that collapses the stem at the soil line and kills the seedling overnight with no recovery. Remove the dome at first sprout and give the seedlings fresh air; slightly drier conditions at the soil surface prevent it.Cover your tray with a humidity dome or cling film until the first sprout appears, then remove it immediately. The dome holds humidity to prevent the seed surface from drying out during germination, but once the shoot emerges the same warm, still, humid air becomes the ideal environment for Pythium and Rhizoctonia, the soilborne fungi that cause damping off. Damping off collapses the stem at soil level; there is no recovery. Fresh air and slightly drier conditions at the soil surface after emergence are the primary prevention.
02
Seedling
Days 7-28
Two small flat leaves (the seed leaves) open first, then the first true leaves emerge between them, which will have the distinctive serrated edges and smell of tomato leaves.Two seed leaves open flat, then the first true leaves emerging between them, which will look distinctly tomato-shaped.
The moment you see the first green sprouts, take off the plastic lid covering your seed tray, as leaving it on causes a fungal problem called damping off that kills seedlings. Move the tray as close to your brightest light as you can get it. If seedlings grow tall and floppy instead of short and stocky, they need more light, not more water; that stretched-out look is called etiolation (reaching for the light), and a weak stem won't fully recover.Remove the humidity dome the moment the first sprouts appear, as waiting causes damping off. Move seedlings as close to your brightest light source as possible. Tomato seedlings require 14-16 hours of light equivalent to bright natural light to grow compact and stocky; at less than that, they etiolate (stretch toward the light) producing a weak, thin stem that never fully recovers. Leggy seedlings are almost always a light deficiency, not a watering problem.
FROM PLANT · If your seedlings are tall and thin and look weak, they need more light, not less water. Move them right next to a bright window (but pull them back a few inches at night if the window gets cold), or set up a grow light to shine on them for 14-16 hours each day. Pale color is a sign of the same problem.Leggy, stretched seedlings almost always mean not enough light, not overwatering. Get them as close to a bright window as possible, or use a grow light 14-16 hours a day.
FROM PLANT · Once you have two sets of true leaves, move the seedling into its own small pot or 3-inch cell. Tomatoes root all along their stems, so plant it a little deeper than it was sitting, as the buried stem becomes more roots.Once you have two sets of true leaves, pot up into individual cells or small 3-inch pots. Tomatoes root all along their stems, so you can bury them deeper than they were, which builds a stronger plant.
03
Established
Days 28-56
The stem is thicker, the plant has 3 or 4 sets of true leaves, and the color is deep green throughout. If you squeeze the stem gently it holds its shape rather than feeling floppy.Strong stem, 3-4 sets of true leaves, deep green color. Ready to pot up or transplant.
Before you move seedlings outside, you need to harden them off, meaning giving them short outdoor stints first (start with an hour or two in a sheltered spot), adding more time and sun each day over 7-10 days. Indoor-grown seedlings aren't used to wind, direct sun, or temperature swings; skipping this step shocks the plant and sets it back. When you plant, go deep: bury the stem all the way up to the lowest set of leaves. Tomatoes grow roots from buried stem, so a deeper planting gives you a bigger, more drought-tolerant root system.Begin hardening off 7-10 days before transplant: start with 1-2 hours outdoors in a sheltered spot, extending time and sun exposure each day. Indoor seedlings have thinner cuticles and underdeveloped stomatal regulation, so gradual exposure allows the plant to upregulate protective responses before full outdoor conditions. Plant deep: bury the stem up to the lowest set of leaves. Tomatoes develop adventitious roots from buried stem tissue, so a deeper planting produces a larger, more drought-resistant root system than a shallow one.
FROM PLANT · Hardening off takes 7 to 10 days and is worth every day of it. The seedlings have been raised in still indoor air with no wind or direct sun, and their leaves aren't built for outdoor conditions yet. Start with 1 to 2 hours outside in a sheltered, partly shaded spot, then add more time and more sun each day. Plants that are hardened off gradually settle in within a week of transplanting; plants that skip it can take 3 weeks to recover.Harden off over 7-10 days, a gradual introduction to outdoor conditions rather than an abrupt move. Indoors, seedlings have thin cuticles, less concentrated chlorophyll, and stomata that have never experienced wind. Sudden outdoor exposure causes sunscald, wilting, and cold stress even on mild days. Start with 1-2 hours in a sheltered, partly shaded spot, adding time and sun exposure each day. Plants that skip hardening off sulk for 2-3 weeks after transplanting while they adapt.
FROM PLANT · Plant your tomatoes deeper than the pot they came in. Dig a hole deep enough to bury the stem right up to the lowest set of leaves, as every bit of buried stem grows roots, and more roots means a stronger, more drought-tolerant plant from day one.Plant your tomatoes deeper than they sit in the pot. Bury the stem right up to the lowest set of leaves. Every bit of buried stem becomes roots.
04
Flowering
Days 45-75 · current stage
Small bright yellow flowers appearing in clusters, each one star-shaped with petals swept back. Each flower is a potential tomato.Small yellow flowers in clusters. Each flower is a potential fruit.
When the first yellow flowers appear, change to a tomato fertilizer (those usually have more potassium, which the plant needs for fruit). Each morning, give the flowering stems a gentle shake or tap. This helps the flowers make fruit, and it really does work, especially indoors or in places without much wind.Switch from a balanced fertilizer to a high-potassium, low-nitrogen formulation. Nitrogen drives vegetative growth, which is counterproductive once flowering begins. Potassium governs sugar transport into fruit and is the limiting nutrient for fruit quality and weight at this stage. Gently tap or shake the flowering stems each morning, as tomatoes are self-fertile but require vibration to release pollen efficiently from the anther cone. In still, sheltered environments, this manual step measurably improves fruit set.
FROM PLANT · Give the flowering stems a gentle shake or tap in the morning to help with pollination. Tomato flowers release pollen when they vibrate, and bees do this naturally, but in sheltered gardens or when bee activity is low, giving the stems a quick shake does the same job. Without it, some flowers drop before setting fruit.A gentle shake or tap of the flowering stem in the morning helps pollen transfer. Tomato flowers are self-fertile, but pollen is released most efficiently by vibration: bumblebees accomplish this naturally through buzz pollination, where wing-beat frequency resonates the anthers and dislodges pollen. In sheltered gardens, polytunnels, or indoor growing environments without significant wind or bee activity, the plant depends on incidental vibration for pollination. Shaking the stem in the morning (when pollen is freshly released) is the practical substitute. Under-pollinated flowers drop without setting fruit.
FROM PLANT · Once flowers open, stop any high-nitrogen fertilizer and switch to a tomato fertilizer or one with a high third number (potassium). Nitrogen is what makes plants grow leaves, exactly right early on but exactly wrong once flowering starts. Potassium is what the plant needs to build good fruit.Stop high-nitrogen feeding when flowers appear and switch to a high-potassium, low-nitrogen feed. Nitrogen drives vegetative growth by stimulating cell division and chlorophyll synthesis, exactly what you want early in the season and exactly what you don't want once flowering starts; potassium plays a different role: it regulates stomatal opening, drives sugar transport from leaves into developing fruit, and is critical for cell wall formation in the fruit itself. A tomato-specific or high-K fertilizer (look for an NPK ratio with a high last number, such as 5-10-10 or 4-12-8) used from first flowering onward translates directly into heavier, better-flavored fruit.
05
Harvest
Days 55-80
Fruit is fully colored (red, orange, or yellow depending on variety) and gives slightly when you press it gently. Very ripe fruit may start to look a little less shiny than it did.Fully colored fruit that gives slightly to a gentle squeeze. The skin may start to lose its sheen when perfectly ripe.
Pick ripe tomatoes every day or two during peak summer. Ripe fruit left on the vine releases a ripening gas (ethylene) that hurries along the fruit around it, which sounds useful, but in an indeterminate plant that keeps flowering all season, leaving ripe tomatoes hanging too long also pulls the plant's energy away from new flowers and young fruit. Regular picking keeps production moving.Pick regularly, every 1-2 days at peak production. Ripe tomatoes on the vine produce ethylene gas, which accelerates ripening of neighboring fruit and, in indeterminate varieties, can slow the initiation of new flower clusters. Leaving ripe fruit on the vine also creates a physical energy sink: the plant continues investing carbohydrates in already-ripe fruit rather than channeling resources to new flowers and developing fruit.
FROM PLANT · Pick regularly, every day or two once fruit is coming in. Leaving ripe tomatoes on the vine slows the plant's production of new fruit, especially with indeterminate varieties like most cherry tomatoes.Pick regularly, as ripe fruit left on the vine slows new fruit production, especially in indeterminate varieties.
FROM PLANT · Try a few tomatoes at different stages to find what your palate likes. Some varieties are sweetest just at peak color; others improve with a few more days. Your own taste is the best harvest guide you have.Taste as you go. Different varieties peak at different moments: some are best just before fully ripe, others need a few more days. Your palate is the best harvest indicator you have.
06
End of Season
Days 120-180
The plant is producing fewer new flowers, lower leaves are yellowing, and nights are regularly feeling cold. The plant is winding down.Slowing production, yellowing lower leaves, nights cooling below 50°F.
When nighttime temperatures stay below 50°F regularly, pinch off all the growing tips, the fuzzy little shoots at the ends of each stem. New flowers won't set fruit in that cold anyway (pollen stops working below about 55°F at night), and removing the tips redirects the plant's remaining energy into the tomatoes already on the vine. Bring green tomatoes inside before any frost, as they'll keep ripening on a countertop at around 60-65°F. Don't refrigerate them: cold below 50°F damages the tomato's texture and flavor permanently (this is called chilling injury).When nights drop below 50°F regularly, pinch out all the growing tips to halt new vegetative growth. Below 55°F, pollen viability declines sharply and new fruit is unlikely to set regardless of how many flowers open. Removing growing tips eliminates the hormone source (auxin from the apical meristem) that pulls resources toward new stem growth, redirecting carbohydrates into the fruit already present on the vine. Bring green tomatoes inside before frost, as they will continue ripening at 60-65°F and store far better than refrigerated tomatoes, which suffer irreversible chilling injury below 50°F.
FROM PLANT · When nights drop regularly below 50°F, pinch out the growing tips, the very top of each stem. Below 55°F, tomatoes stop setting new fruit reliably. By removing the growing tips, you redirect the plant's energy into ripening the fruit already on the vine rather than trying to grow new stems that won't produce before frost.When nights drop regularly below 50°F, pinch out all the growing tips. Below 55°F, pollen viability drops sharply and fruit set becomes unlikely even if flowers are still opening. At 50°F and below, the plant is physiologically in decline for new fruit production. Pinching the growing tips, the terminal bud at the top of each stem, removes the hormone sink that draws resources toward new vegetative growth, redirecting carbohydrates toward the fruit already on the vine. A plant with 10-15 near-ripe tomatoes will finish them faster once it has stopped trying to grow new stems.
FROM PLANT · Green tomatoes brought in before frost will ripen indoors. Lay them in a single layer somewhere cool (60 to 65°F) and dark, not the refrigerator. Refrigerator temperatures cause chilling injury, which produces the mealy, flavorless texture that makes people think they dislike tomatoes. Room temperature speeds ripening but hurts flavor; 60 to 65°F is the right balance.Green tomatoes left on the plant when frost threatens can be brought inside to ripen. Lay them in a single layer somewhere cool (60-65°F) and dark, not the refrigerator. Refrigerator temperatures (below 50°F) cause chilling injury: cell membranes in the fruit lose their selective permeability, releasing enzymes that break down cell walls, producing the mealy texture and muted flavor characteristic of cold-stored tomatoes. The damage is irreversible once it occurs. Ripening indoors at 60-65°F is slower than at room temperature but preserves flavor better than hurrying at 70°F+.
Beginner
Know your soil

Your soil

Identify yours

Not sure what soil you have? Grab a small handful of damp soil from your garden bed and squeeze it. If it crumbles apart easily, it's sandy. If it holds together but breaks when you poke it, it's loam (what most vegetables want). If it stays in a hard, slippery ball, it's clay.

What this crop wants

Cherry tomatoes want soil that drains well and is rich in organic matter. If water sits on top of your bed after rain or stays soggy for more than a day, drainage is a problem, soggy roots will rot even if the soil is otherwise good. The easiest fix for most soils is to work in 2 to 3 inches of compost before planting, which improves both drainage and fertility at once. Tomatoes are heavy feeders, so starting with rich soil means less fertilizing mid-season.

If your soil doesn't match

You have sandy soil

Mix 2-3 inches of compost into the top 6 inches of your bed before planting. Compost holds moisture (which sandy soil drains too fast) and adds the nutrients sandy soil tends to lack. Repeat each season. Compost breaks down over time.

You have clay soil

Mix 2-3 inches of compost AND a few inches of coarse sand or perlite into the top 6 inches of your bed. The compost feeds the plants; the sand breaks up the clay so air and water can move through. Don't add sand without compost. It can compact like concrete.

Containers and raised beds

If amending your soil sounds like too much work, or if your soil is heavy clay, full of rocks, or contaminated, build over it. A raised bed at least 12 inches deep filled with a 50/50 mix of compost and sandy loam gives you ideal growing soil with no battles. A 5-gallon container with quality potting mix does the same for one plant at a time. Both bypass your native soil entirely.

Learn more about your soil
The specs

Care guide

The numbers that matter, at a glance.

Sunlight
Full sun · 6-8 hrs/day
Water
Regular
Spacing
2 to 3 feet
Soil
loam, sandy loam
Days to maturity
55-70 days from transplant
Soil pH
6 to 6.8
Container OK?
Yes · 5+ gal pot
Germination temp
70-85°F
In a pot

Yes, 5 gallons and up

Cherry tomatoes do very well in pots. Use a 5-gallon pot at minimum, though a larger pot (10 gallons) holds moisture better and supports a bigger plant. Compact varieties like Tumbling Tom or Tiny Tim are designed for containers; full-size indeterminate cherry tomatoes will also work in 10-gallon containers with a sturdy cage. In hot weather, container plants dry out fast and may need water every day.Excellent container crop. Use 5-10 gallon pots. Determinate or compact varieties (Tumbling Tom, Tiny Tim) are ideal. Water daily in heat.

Pot size
5 gallons and up; 10 gallons is comfortable
Mature size
2 to 6 feet tall, 2 to 6 feet wide
Drainage
Drainage holes are a must. Skip the gravel layer. Do not let the pot sit in a saucer of standing water. Lift the pot off the saucer, or empty the saucer within an hour of watering. A saucer is fine for keeping the pot warm, but the roots should never sit in pooled water.Drainage holes are a must. Skip the gravel layer. Elevate container off saucer or remove standing water within an hour; saucers are useful for heat retention but roots should not sit in pooled water.
Watering
Pots dry out much faster than garden beds, so in summer heat you may need to water every day. Stick your finger two inches into the soil; if it feels dry there, water thoroughly. Keeping moisture steady matters: letting the soil swing from bone-dry to soaked is the most common cause of blossom end rot (dark, sunken patches on the fruit bottom) in container tomatoes.Containers dry significantly faster than in-ground soil, so daily watering is often required during summer heat. Check moisture 2 inches below the surface daily. Consistent moisture is critical; irregular watering is a primary driver of blossom-end rot in containers.
Depth and shape
At least 12 inches deep. Deep preferred over wide; minimum 12-inch depth for adequate root development. Standard round 5- to 10-gallon nursery containers work well.
Self-watering pot
A self-watering container suits cherry tomatoes well, since the wicking reservoir smooths out the moisture swings that drive cracking and blossom-end rot in a heavy summer feeder. Keep the reservoir topped up in peak heat, but let the mix draw down rather than staying saturated, and water from the top occasionally to flush salts that concentrate with constant sub-irrigation.
Mix
Container potting mix. Incorporate 20-25% perlite by volume if the mix feels dense; add slow-release balanced fertilizer (e.g., 10-10-10 granular) at planting per label rate.
Feeding
Container medium has limited nutrient buffering capacity. Supplement with liquid balanced fertilizer every 1-2 weeks once flowering begins, or apply slow-release granular at planting plus a liquid mid-season boost. Containers are less forgiving of nutrient deficits than in-ground beds.
Plants per pot
Illinois Extension: 1 plant in a 1 gallon pot.
One to try

Tumbling Tom Red

5 more compact types

Tumbling Tom Yellow

Tiny Tim

Patio Choice Yellow

Sweet 'N' Neat Scarlet

Tumbler

Pot safety

Ask what your balcony or roof can carry

A balcony or roof can only hold so much weight. Before you set heavy pots there, ask a building architect what it can safely carry.Illinois Extension's guidance is to consult a building architect about weight limits before placing heavy pots on a balcony or rooftop garden. It gives no weight figure.

Never grow food in a container with anything toxic in it

Many kinds of containers can be used. Whatever you choose, keep anything toxic out of it, especially if you are growing food.Colorado State accepts nearly any container material but warns against using a container that holds toxic materials, especially for edible plants. Illinois adds that a vegetable container should be free of chemicals toxic to plants or people, and urges caution with treated lumber when growing food. If you cannot account for what a repurposed container once held, that alone is a reason to keep food out of it.

Secure hanging containers well

Fasten hanging baskets and window or rail boxes securely. Think about what is below them too, since they can drip on people or things underneath.Illinois Extension asks growers to secure hanging containers well and to think through the safety issues of hanging them. Placement matters too, since a hanging container can drip onto people or belongings below.

Soil chemistry

Soil pH for cherry tomato

Preferred
6 to 6.8
Tolerated
5.5 to 7

Soil pH is a measure of acidity on a scale from 1 to 14, where 7 is neutral. Tomatoes need it between about 6.0 and 6.8, the slightly acidic range where the nutrients they need are most available. Soils in the interior West (Arizona, Nevada, Utah, Colorado) often run alkaline (above 7), which can cause nutrient problems even when fertilizer is applied; growers in those regions often need to add sulfur before planting. Eastern and Midwestern soils are often naturally in the right range, but a $10 soil test from your local extension office tells you for certain.Tomatoes are particularly sensitive to pH because it governs the solubility of phosphorus, calcium, and magnesium, three nutrients they consume in large quantities. At pH below 5.5, manganese and aluminum become increasingly available at phytotoxic levels; blossom-end rot risk rises as calcium uptake is impaired. Above 7.0, iron and manganese deficiencies drive interveinal chlorosis on younger leaves. In the alkaline soils common across the interior West and alkaline-irrigation regions, growers routinely need to acidify before planting. Eastern soils often run naturally in the preferred range; Pacific Northwest soils vary widely by parent material.

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Steady hand on the hose

Watering

When & how much
Frequency
Every 2 to 3 days in hot weather, and about once a week when it is cool. Plants drink and lose much more water when it is hot, so the soil dries out faster. Plants in containers dry out even quicker and may need checking every day in peak summer heat.Every 2-3 days during hot weather, once a week when temperatures are cool. The difference is driven by evapotranspiration rate: at air temperatures above 80-85°F, plants lose water through leaves several times faster than at 60°F, so the soil dries proportionally faster. Container-grown plants dry out faster still and may need daily checking in peak summer heat.
Amount
About 1 to 2 inches of water a week, counting rain and watering together. Water deeply enough to soak the soil down about 8 to 12 inches, where the main roots are. Deep watering pulls the roots downward, which makes the plant tougher in heat and dry spells; frequent shallow watering keeps the roots near the surface, where they dry out fast.1-2 inches of water per week total from rain plus irrigation. The goal is to wet the soil to 8-12 inches depth, deep enough to reach the main root mass and encourage roots to grow downward rather than staying near the surface. Light, shallow watering trains roots upward, making the plant more sensitive to heat and drought stress.
Method
Water at the soil, not over the top of the plant: use a soaker hose, a drip line, or just hold the hose at the base. Wet leaves are how most tomato leaf diseases get started, so keeping the leaves dry is one of the best things you can do. If you do have to water from above, do it in the morning so the leaves dry off before evening.At soil level: soaker hose, drip line, or a hose placed at the base. Wet foliage is the primary route of entry for Septoria leaf spot, early blight, and late blight: fungal spores on the soil surface travel upward in splash water, and wet leaf surfaces give spores the moisture film they need to germinate and penetrate. Morning watering, if overhead watering is unavoidable, allows foliage to dry before evening, the most disease-permissive period.
Signs of trouble
Too much water
Yellow lower leaves and cracked fruit are the two signs to watch for. Yellow leaves near the bottom of the plant mean the roots are sitting in waterlogged soil, and when the soil stays soggy, air gets squeezed out of it and the roots can't breathe. Cracked fruit usually follows a sudden heavy watering after the soil has been dry: the tomato swells fast and the skin splits. Both problems come from uneven watering, not just too much water overall.Yellow lower leaves, cracked fruit, persistently soggy soil. Yellowing lower leaves indicate roots are sitting in anaerobic (oxygen-depleted) conditions, as waterlogged soil displaces the air pores roots need to respire. Fruit cracking happens when a sudden surge of water causes rapid cell expansion in a fruit whose skin has already stopped stretching; common after heavy rain following a dry spell. Both are signs of inconsistency, not just total volume.
Too little water
Wilting during the day that bounces back overnight is the clearest sign your plant is thirsty: if it perks up after the sun goes down, water is the issue. If flowers drop before forming fruit, the plant may be under water stress: when it can't sustain fruit development, it sheds the flower at the stem (called abscission). Note that extreme heat above 90°F does the same thing, so blossom drop can happen even when you're watering regularly during a heat wave.Wilting leaves that recover overnight, blossom drop, dry cracked soil. Overnight recovery distinguishes water stress from heat stress or disease: if leaves perk up after the temperature drops, moisture is the limiting factor. Blossom drop under drought stress occurs because the plant triggers an abscission layer at the flower stem when it cannot sustain fruit development; high temperatures (above 90°F day / below 55°F night) cause the same response, so both stressors can operate simultaneously.
Feeding rhythm

Feeding

Frequency
every 3 to 4 weeks
Type
Tomato fertilizer
When to start
starter at transplanting, then side-dress about 3 to 4 weeks later

When you see the first flowers opening, switch fertilizers. Use a balanced or all-purpose fertilizer early in the season, then switch to a tomato-specific or high-potassium fertilizer once flowers appear. Too much nitrogen (the first number on the package) after flowering pushes the plant to grow more leaves instead of fruit.Switch from balanced to high-potassium feed at flowering. Too much nitrogen produces leafy plants with little fruit.

N · P · K = 5-10-10

Look for three numbers on the fertilizer bag: those are the NPK ratio (nitrogen, phosphorus, potassium). A soil test is the surest guide, and it is what both extension services behind this guide recommend first. Without one, a low-nitrogen balanced formula such as 5-10-10 is a sensible default. Go easy on the first number: too much nitrogen gives you a big leafy plant that is slow to set fruit. Skip the high-phosphorus bags sold as bloom boosters unless a soil test actually calls for phosphorus, because many soils already hold plenty.Soil test governs. Absent one, a low-nitrogen balanced formula such as 5-10-10. UMN advises a low- or no-phosphorus feed unless a test specifically calls for phosphorus, and warns that excess nitrogen produces bushy, leafy plants slow to bear fruit.

Try Miracle-Gro Tomato Plant Food
Who grows well together

Companion planting

Most tomato companion advice is garden tradition rather than tested fact. The clearest exception is marigolds, which can cut down on root pests, but only when planted thickly as a cover crop a couple of months ahead, not scattered among the tomatoes. In practice: keep fennel away, keep tomatoes away from their relatives like potatoes and eggplant if disease has been a problem for you, and try nasturtiums as a trap for aphids if aphids gave you trouble in past seasons. Cherry tomato companions are dominated by traditional lore with selective extension backing. The marigold/nematode connection is the best-documented pairing in this crop's companion set, effective as a dense pre-season cover crop, not as scattered concurrent interplanting. For most growers, the practical guidance is straightforward: avoid fennel, keep tomatoes away from other Solanaceae family members (potatoes, eggplant) if disease pressure is a concern in your region, and consider nasturtiums as an aphid trap crop if aphid pressure was a problem in past seasons.

Pest deterrent
Basil
A long-standing pairing. Many gardeners say basil improves tomato flavor and may keep some pests away. There is no hard proof for this exact pair, but it is widely done and harmless.Long-established pairing; flavor-improvement claims are traditional. Basil's aromatic compounds may deter some pest insects, though not extension-documented for this specific pair, but widely practiced and low risk. Traditional
concurrent
Marigolds
French marigolds can reduce root-knot pests in the soil, but only when planted thickly as a cover crop a couple of months before the tomatoes, not as a few plants tucked in alongside them.French marigolds suppress root-knot nematodes, most effectively as a dense cover crop planted 2+ months before tomatoes, not as concurrent interplanting. Extension-documented mechanism. Research-backed
Before the season
Parsley
When parsley is left to flower, the blooms draw in helpful insects that prey on garden pests. The effect is well established in general, though this exact parsley and tomato pairing has not been tested directly.Flowering umbellifers attract predatory wasps and beneficial insects; mechanism is documented in biological control literature though the specific parsley-tomato pairing is not directly extension-tested. Well-grounded
concurrent
Structural
Carrots
Carrots' deep taproot partitions the root zone differently from tomato's fibrous roots, theoretically reducing below-ground competition. This is a plausible root-zone partitioning inference, not an extension-tested pairing. Well-grounded
concurrent
Pollinator
Borage
Borage flowers attract pollinators over an extended bloom period; may also repel tomato hornworm (traditional claim). Pollinator attraction is biologically plausible; hornworm repellence is tradition. Traditional
concurrent
Trap crop
Nasturtiums
Nasturtiums function as a trap crop for aphids: aphids preferentially colonize nasturtiums, drawing them away from tomatoes. UC IPM documents trap-crop use of nasturtiums in vegetable gardens. Research-backed
concurrent
Keep apart from
Fennel Fennel releases substances that stunt the growth of many plants around it, so it is a poor neighbor for most vegetables. The trouble with tomatoes is traditional advice, but it fits fennel's known habit of holding back its neighbors.Fennel is broadly allelopathic and suppresses growth of many neighboring plants. Extension literature documents fennel as a poor companion for most vegetables; the specific tomato interaction is traditional but consistent with fennel's known allelopathic properties. Traditional
Brassicas Cabbage-family plants and tomatoes are both hungry feeders, so planting them close together makes them compete for the same nutrients. It is not harmful, but both crops produce less.Both brassicas and tomatoes are heavy feeders; close interplanting creates real competition for nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium. Not a toxic pairing, but productivity of both crops is reduced under competition. Well-grounded
Corn Corn and tomatoes are fed on by the same caterpillar pest. Growing them side by side gives that pest more to feed on and builds up the pressure on both crops.Both crops host the tomato fruit worm / corn earworm (Helicoverpa zea, same species). Planting together creates a concentrated host reservoir that amplifies pest pressure on both crops. Research-backed
Potatoes Both are Solanaceae and share primary diseases (late blight, Phytophthora infestans; early blight, Alternaria solani) and several pests. Planting together creates a continuous host bridge that sustains inoculum across the season and into following years. Crop rotation separating Solanaceae is the standard extension recommendation for disease management. Research-backed
Eggplant Same family (Solanaceae), shares Colorado potato beetle pressure and early blight. Interplanting concentrates beetle and disease pressure; separating Solanaceae crops, even within a season, reduces crossover pest load. Research-backed
Provenance tagged inline · see methodology for the labeling system Key
Harvest signals

When to pick

Pick when the tomato is fully colored all the way through, red, yellow, orange, or black depending on what you planted, and gives just slightly to a gentle squeeze. The skin shifting from shiny to slightly matte is a reliable visual cue that it's ready. A ripe tomato should twist off easily; if you have to pull hard, give it one more day. Try to harvest in the morning when it's cooler, as tomatoes held in hot sun deteriorate faster.Pick when fully colored, red, yellow, orange, or black depending on variety, and slightly soft to a gentle squeeze. Full color indicates that lycopene synthesis (in red types) or anthocyanin and carotenoid accumulation (in other types) is complete, which correlates with peak sugar content and flavor volatiles. The fruit should detach with a slight twist rather than requiring pulling; resistance to easy separation means the abscission zone has not yet fully formed. The skin losing its sheen is a reliable visual cue: the epidermis transitions from a taut, reflective surface to a slightly matte finish as cell turgor shifts during final ripening. Harvest in the morning when temperatures are cooler, as fruit held at 90°F+ deteriorates faster than fruit harvested and moved to shade.

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Yield

What to expect

About 4 to 8 pounds of fruit per plant over the season, and cherry types often land at the higher end when conditions are good. Vining (indeterminate) plants keep producing until frost; bushier (determinate) plants give one big flush and then taper off.4-8 lbs over the season per plant, with cherry-type hybrids commonly producing at the upper end of that range under good conditions. Indeterminate varieties continue producing until frost; determinate cherry types produce a concentrated flush and then taper off.

At its peak, a healthy vining plant gives you a generous bowlful every 2 to 3 days. Production is not steady: it builds up after the first few tomatoes, peaks in the hottest weeks of summer, then slows down as the season cools and the days get shorter.At peak a healthy indeterminate plant yields a generous bowlful every 2-3 days. Production is not linear: it accelerates from first harvest, peaks in the hottest weeks of summer, and then slows in late season as temperatures drop and days shorten. Your first year, expect to land somewhere in the lower part of the range while you learn what your specific spot needs. The four things that make the biggest difference are sun (at least 6 hours of direct sun daily), consistent watering, good soil, and catching pest or disease problems early. If you're picking enough tomatoes to fill a salad bowl every week or two, that is a real first-season success.First-season plants often yield at the low end of the range as growers learn site-specific conditions. Soil organic matter, sun hours, consistent watering, and timely disease response each contribute materially to where within the 4-8 lb range a plant lands. Getting enough tomatoes to fill a salad bowl regularly is a genuine first-season success.

What changes yield
hours of direct sunlightconsistent wateringfeeding schedulestaking and airflow
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Pick your variety

Recommended varieties

Cherry tomatoes come in a few shapes: round, pear-shaped, and slightly larger elongated types called cocktail tomatoes. All are grown the same way. If you're not sure which to try, Sungold is a popular first choice with a sweet, complex flavor. Juliet is a common elongated type that holds up well on the vine.Cherry-class tomatoes include round cherry, pear-shaped, and cocktail (elongated cherry) types, cultivation is the same across all. Sungold is consistently rated the best-tasting cherry tomato by home gardeners worldwide. Juliet is the most common cocktail tomato.

Sungold
orange, exceptionally sweet
Sweet Million
red, prolific
Black Cherry
dark, complex
Supersweet 100
red, very productive
Yellow Pear
pear-shaped, mild, heirloom
Juliet
cocktail / elongated cherry, F1, productive
Tumbling Tom
compact-determinate, ideal for hanging baskets and containers
Patio Choice
yellow, compact-determinate AAS winner, 18" plant
Off the vine

Storing your harvest

Room temp
About 1 to 2 weeks at room temperature, which is where tomatoes keep their best flavor. Set them stem-side down on the counter, out of direct sun, which helps them hold moisture longer.1-2 weeks at room temperature (65-70°F). Ripe tomatoes held at room temperature continue producing small amounts of ethylene, which sustains flavor development. Stem-side down reduces moisture loss through the stem scar, the most permeable point on the fruit surface.
Fridge
Try not to refrigerate ripe tomatoes. The cold turns the texture mealy and dulls the flavor, and the damage cannot be undone. If a ripe tomato would otherwise go to waste, you can refrigerate it and use it within a day or two.Avoid refrigerating ripe tomatoes. Temperatures below 50-55°F cause chilling injury: cell membranes lose their selective permeability, releasing cell-wall-degrading enzymes that produce the mealy texture and muted flavor of cold-stored tomatoes. The damage is irreversible and occurs within hours at refrigerator temperatures. If a ripe tomato must be saved from immediate waste, refrigerate and use within 1-2 days.
Freezer
You can freeze whole tomatoes to cook with later, but do not expect to eat them fresh after thawing: freezing makes the texture mushy. One handy upside is that the skins slip right off once thawed, which is great for sauces and cooked dishes.Freeze whole for cooking use, do not attempt to eat thawed tomatoes fresh. Freezing ruptures cell walls, making texture mushy when thawed. The practical benefit is that skins slip off easily after thawing, making frozen tomatoes convenient for sauces and cooked dishes. Blanching before freezing is optional but extends storage quality.
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From the garden to the kitchen

Recipes to try

Breakfast

Garden Herb Omelette

Breakfast · 10m · Serves 1
BBQ & Grill

Grilled Chicken with Fresh Garden Salsa

BBQ & Grill · 40m · Serves 4
Mains

Stuffed Garden Peppers

Mains · 55m · Serves 4
More recipes
arriving with the harvest
When something goes wrong

Common problems

Frost or cold damage
01 of 05
What happened You'll see the leaves turn black or dark brown and go limp, sometimes overnight after a cold night. Tomatoes have no cold tolerance at all. Even without a hard freeze, temperatures below 50°F cause what's called chilling injury: the plant's cells start to break down, and young transplants are especially vulnerable because they haven't built up a protective waxy coating yet. It's tempting to think the plant just needs time to recover, but if it was hit by frost, it usually won't come back. For next time: wait until both your nighttime lows and your soil temperature are reliably above 60°F before transplanting.Tomatoes are warm-season crops with tropical origin and have no cold tolerance mechanism, unlike brassicas or root vegetables, they cannot harden or acclimate to cold. Chilling injury begins below 50°F and cell damage accelerates near freezing; a single frost event at the transplant stage usually kills the plant outright because young transplants have not yet developed the protective waxy cuticle layer that provides some buffer in established plants. Soil temperature is as important as air temperature: roots in cold soil (below 60°F) cannot take up water or nutrients efficiently even when air temperatures are acceptable, which causes transplant shock that looks like cold damage but persists for weeks after the weather improves. Next season Wait until nighttime temperatures are reliably above 50°F AND your soil is above 60°F before transplanting, checking soil temperature 2 to 3 inches deep with an inexpensive probe thermometer. In Zones 3 to 5 this often means waiting until late May or early June no matter what the calendar says.Wait until both nighttime air temperatures are reliably above 50°F and soil temperature is above 60°F before transplanting. Check soil temperature with a probe thermometer 2-3 inches deep in the actual planting bed, as a south-facing raised bed can be 10°F warmer than a shaded in-ground bed on the same day. In zones 3-5, this means waiting until late May or even early June, regardless of calendar date.
Pests or disease
02 of 05
What happened Tomato plants can run into a few common problems. Blight is a leaf disease that shows up first on the bottom leaves and spreads fastest in wet, humid weather. Blossom end rot is the black or brown sunken spot on the bottom of the tomato, it looks like a nutrient problem, but it's almost always caused by uneven watering (dry one day, soaked the next). Adding calcium won't fix it. Steady moisture will.Two of the most common problems, blight and blossom end rot, are frequently misdiagnosed and mistreated. Blight (early or late) is a fungal or oomycete disease that enters through wet leaf surfaces; spores splash up from soil and spread rapidly in warm, humid conditions, progressing from lower leaves upward. Removing affected leaves immediately slows but does not stop spread once established. Blossom end rot presents as a sunken, dark patch on the blossom end of developing fruit. Despite appearances, it is not a fungal disease and adding calcium to the soil rarely fixes it. The actual mechanism is calcium transport failure: calcium moves into developing fruit through the water stream in the xylem, and when watering is inconsistent, especially dry periods followed by heavy irrigation, the transpiration-driven flow to the blossom end is interrupted, and those cells die. Steady moisture at the root zone is the only reliable fix. Next season Water at the base of the plant (not from overhead) and stake the plant for good airflow, as leaves that dry quickly after rain are far harder for blight to infect. Move your tomatoes to a different bed each year; blight spores can persist in the soil and on old plant material. For blossom end rot: mulch heavily and water deeply and consistently rather than in small, frequent amounts.Water at the base, never overhead, to eliminate the splash route that delivers blight spores to leaves. Stake and prune for airflow, as leaves that dry quickly after rain or dew are far less vulnerable. Rotate tomatoes to a different bed each year; blight spores persist in soil and on plant debris, and a fresh location breaks the inoculum cycle. For blossom end rot: mulch heavily to buffer moisture swings, and water deeply and consistently rather than shallowly and frequently.
Too much water
03 of 05
What happened Yellow lower leaves and wilting, even when the soil is wet, are the signs you've overwatered. Soggy soil pushes out the air the roots need to breathe; once roots suffocate, the plant can't take up water even though there's plenty of it, which is why it wilts. People often respond by watering more, which makes things worse. Cracked fruit is a related but separate problem: it happens when you water heavily after a dry stretch, the tomato swells fast and the skin splits. The fix is consistency: aim for steady moisture rather than long dry spells followed by big waterings.Waterlogged soil drives out the oxygen roots need for cellular respiration, so roots in anaerobic conditions die back, and without functioning roots the plant cannot take up water or nutrients even as the soil stays wet. Yellowing lower leaves are the first visible sign, followed by generalized wilting that paradoxically looks like drought. Fruit cracking is a related but distinct problem: it happens when a sudden surge of water (heavy rain after a dry period, or a large irrigation after letting the plant get too dry) causes rapid fruit cell expansion in a skin that has already stopped stretching. The skin splits at the shoulders or develops concentric cracks. Both problems are rooted in inconsistency rather than sheer total volume, as a plant that receives consistent 1-2 inches per week rarely cracks or shows root oxygen stress. Next season Water deeply and less often rather than a little every day. Deep watering encourages roots to grow down where the soil stays more stable; roots near the surface are the first to suffocate or dry out. A 2 to 3 inch layer of mulch around the base dramatically reduces moisture swings between waterings.Water deeply and less frequently rather than a small amount every day. Deep watering (wetting the soil to 8-10 inches) encourages roots to grow down where soil moisture is more stable; shallow watering concentrates roots at the surface where they are most vulnerable to both drought and saturation. Mulching 2-3 inches around the base dramatically reduces moisture swings between waterings, which is the single most effective intervention against both fruit cracking and blossom end rot.
Not enough waterToo little water
04 of 05
What happened Flowers dropping before they form fruit and dark sunken patches on the bottom of tomatoes are the two big signs of insufficient or uneven watering. When water gets cut off during flowering, the plant sheds its flowers to conserve resources, physically cutting them loose at the stem. The dark patch on the fruit's base is called blossom end rot; it looks like a nutrient problem but it's almost always caused by uneven soil moisture, not a lack of calcium in your soil. People often add calcium supplements, but that won't fix it; steady, consistent watering will. Note that heat above 90°F causes the same flower-drop, so both can happen at the same time.Water stress during flowering triggers an abscission response: the plant activates an enzyme-driven separation layer at the base of each flower stem, dropping the flower before fruit can form. The same response is triggered by extreme heat (above 90°F daytime, below 55°F nighttime), which means during a heat wave, blossom drop can occur even if the soil seems adequately moist. During fruit development, inconsistent soil moisture is the primary cause of blossom end rot: calcium is transported to developing fruit through the transpiration stream, and interrupted water flow to the blossom end kills those cells. The external result is a sunken, darkened patch on the fruit's base. Next season Aim for 1 to 2 inches of water per week, delivered consistently. Mulch around the base with straw or shredded leaves to slow the soil from drying out. In hot climates (Zones 8 to 11), a drip line on a timer is the most reliable way to keep moisture steady without thinking about it every day.Aim for 1-2 inches of water per week delivered consistently. Mulch heavily around the base to buffer the soil against rapid drying, as a 2-3 inch layer of straw or shredded leaves can halve moisture loss on a hot day. In zones 8-11, where summer heat makes consistent moisture especially difficult, a drip system on a timer is the most reliable tool. Water at the base of the plant, never the leaves.
Not enough sun
05 of 05
What happened If your plant grows tall and leafy but produces very little fruit, or pale, flavorless tomatoes, sun is probably the problem. Tomatoes need at least 6 hours of direct sun per day; below that, the plant puts its energy into growing stems and leaves instead of fruit. What fruit does form tends to be bland because sugar development depends on sunlight. A secondary sign: shaded plants tend to stay wet longer and get more disease, because leaves don't dry out well in low light. If your spot gets 4-5 hours, you'll get some fruit, but manage expectations: fewer tomatoes, smaller, and less sweet than a full-sun plant.Tomatoes are among the most light-demanding vegetables: photosynthesis is the energy source for both vegetative growth and fruit sugar development, and fruit quality is directly proportional to the plant's photosynthetic output. Below 6 hours of direct sun, the plant redirects what energy it has toward survival, stem elongation and leaf area, rather than reproduction. Fruit set drops sharply, and what fruit does form is typically thin-skinned, pale, and bland. A secondary effect is increased disease: shaded plants stay wetter longer after rain or irrigation, and poor airflow through dense, etiolated growth creates the humid microclimate that blight and leaf mold need to establish. Next season Tomatoes need at least 6 hours of direct sun per day, and this is not negotiable. If your current spot is borderline, walk your garden at different times of day and look for a spot a few feet over that gets more morning sun before something shades it. Compact cherry tomato varieties like dwarf or patio types tolerate slightly less sun than full-size plants.Tomatoes are not negotiable on sun requirements. Below 6 hours of direct sun, expect significantly reduced yields and higher disease pressure regardless of everything else done correctly. If the current spot is marginal (6-7 hours), it is worth mapping sun across the garden before committing the bed again, as a spot that gets shade from a fence or tree in the afternoon may have 2-3 more hours of morning sun available just a few feet away. Dwarf or patio-type cherry tomatoes tolerate slightly less sun than full-size plants.
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The usual suspects

Pests & diseases

Pests
Aphids
P · 01
Symptoms Clusters of tiny soft green or black insects on the growing tips and the undersides of leaves, often so small they look like dots. The leaves may start to curl or feel sticky. You might see ants walking up the stems, as they farm aphids for the sweet liquid the aphids produce.Clusters of tiny soft insects on new growth and leaf undersides. Leaves curl, yellow, or become sticky with honeydew. Sooty black mold may follow. Cause Tiny soft-bodied insects that cluster on stems and the undersides of leaves. Their numbers can build up very fast in warm weather.Multiple aphid species. Populations explode rapidly in warm weather. Organic treatment Spray the colonies directly with a strong jet of water from a hose. For persistent infestations, apply insecticidal soap or neem oil spray, making sure to coat the leaf undersides where the aphids cluster.Blast off with strong water jet. Apply insecticidal soap or neem oil directly to colonies. Introduce ladybugs or lacewings. Prevention Plant marigolds or nasturtiums near your tomatoes, as both attract beneficial insects that eat aphids. Avoid over-fertilizing with high-nitrogen fertilizer, which produces the soft new growth aphids prefer.Plant marigolds and nasturtiums nearby. Avoid excess nitrogen fertilizer which creates soft, aphid-attractive growth. Encourage beneficial insects.
The control ladder

The ladder troubleshoots from the gentlest solution to the strongest. Start with the gentlest option and only move on when and if it doesn't work.

  1. Balanced nitrogen feeding

    Go easy on high-nitrogen fertilizer. Heavy feeding pushes out lots of soft new shoots, and that tender growth is exactly what aphids like to settle on.Restrain nitrogen inputs; lush nitrogen-driven flushes produce the tender tissue aphid colonies build up on fastest, so moderate feeding removes their favorite substrate.

  2. Water spray

    Knock the colonies off with a hard stream of water from the hose, aiming at the growing tips and the undersides of the leaves where they gather. Do it early in the day so the leaves can dry.A forceful water jet directed into colonies dislodges aphids and disrupts buildup; repeat as clusters reappear on new growth, early enough in the day for foliage to dry.

  3. Beneficial predators

    Let the helpful insects work for you. Growing marigolds or nasturtiums near the tomatoes draws in the insects that eat aphids, like ladybugs.Conserve and attract natural enemies: interplanted marigolds and nasturtiums draw aphid predators, and avoiding broad-spectrum sprays keeps them on the job.

  4. Buying and releasing natural enemies

    For a stubborn colony you can buy ladybugs or lacewings, both natural aphid hunters, and release them right onto the infested plants.Purchased ladybug or lacewing releases can supplement resident predators; release onto an active, located infestation rather than preventively.

  5. Insecticidal soap

    If the aphids persist, spray insecticidal soap directly onto them, coating the undersides of the leaves where they cluster. It works on contact, so it has to wet the insects themselves.Insecticidal soap gives contact knockdown; thorough coverage of colonized leaf undersides determines results, and spraying only where the pests are spares the soft-bodied beneficials it would otherwise wet.

  6. Neem oil

    Neem oil is another spray option for an infestation that keeps coming back. Coat the leaf undersides thoroughly, and skip it in heat above 90°F or on plants that are already drought-stressed.Neem oil covers persistent colonies as a low-residue alternative to soap; underside coverage matters, avoid applications above 90°F or on drought-stressed plants, and keep it off anything in flower.

The bottom rungs are products with label rules: timing, pollinators, and days to wait before harvest. Before you spray →

Tomato hornworm
P · 02
Symptoms Large sections of leaves or whole stems stripped overnight. Look for fat green caterpillars (up to 4 inches long) that blend almost perfectly into the stems, but they are easier to spot by looking for the black droppings on the leaves below.Large green caterpillars (up to 4 inches) stripping foliage. Leaves disappear rapidly. Black droppings on leaves. Cause Large green caterpillars, the larvae of a moth, that feed on leaves and stems. They show up mostly in mid to late summer.Manduca quinquemaculata moth larvae. Mid to late summer pest. Organic treatment Hand-pick and drop in soapy water, it sounds simple but it works well. If you spot any with small white oval capsules stuck to their backs, leave those ones; parasitic wasps have laid eggs on them and the wasps will do the work for you.Hand-pick, they are well camouflaged but easy to remove. Apply Bt (Bacillus thuringiensis) spray. If white cocoons visible on back, leave them, as parasitic wasps are doing the work. Prevention Till or turn your soil in autumn to destroy overwintering pupae. Planting dill or fennel nearby attracts the predatory wasps that prey on hornworms.Till soil in autumn to kill overwintering pupae. Plant dill and basil nearby to attract predatory wasps.
The control ladder

The ladder troubleshoots from the gentlest solution to the strongest. Start with the gentlest option and only move on when and if it doesn't work.

  1. Off-season tillage

    After the season ends, turn over the soil in the bed. Hornworms spend the winter as pupae, the resting stage buried in the soil, and autumn tilling destroys them before they can become next year's moths.Autumn tillage of the finished bed destroys overwintering pupae in the soil, cutting the local population before the next flight.

  2. Handpicking

    Pick the caterpillars off by hand and drop them into soapy water. It sounds too simple, but it works well at garden scale. They blend into the stems, so scout for the black droppings on the leaves below to find them. If one has small white capsules stuck to its back, leave it alone: those belong to a helpful wasp whose young will finish that hornworm for you.Hand removal is effective despite the camouflage; scout by frass on the lower leaves. Spare any larva carrying white parasitoid cocoons, since the emerging wasps continue the suppression.

  3. Beneficial predators

    Plant dill or fennel near the tomatoes. They attract the small wasps that hunt hornworms, so the wasps patrol the planting for you.Interplant dill, fennel, or basil to draw the parasitoid wasps that attack hornworms; conserving that pressure, together with sparing parasitized larvae, keeps later flushes down.

  4. Bacillus thuringiensis (Bt)

    If picking is not keeping up, spray Bt, short for Bacillus thuringiensis, a bacteria-based spray that acts on caterpillars. Spray while the caterpillars are still small, reapply after rain, and keep it off plants you grow for butterflies, since it affects their caterpillars too.Bt kurstaki controls hornworm larvae, most effectively while they are young; reapply after rain or new growth, and confine it to the crop since it acts on lepidopteran larvae as a group.

The bottom rungs are products with label rules: timing, pollinators, and days to wait before harvest. Before you spray →

Flea beetles
P · 03
Symptoms Tiny round holes scattered across the leaves, especially on young plants and seedlings. If you approach the plant quickly you'll see tiny shiny black beetles jumping off the leaves: that's the flea beetle.Tiny round shot-holes in leaves, especially on seedlings and young plants. Small shiny black beetles jump when disturbed. Cause Small dark beetles that jump like fleas when disturbed and chew tiny holes in leaves. They are most active in spring on young plants.Multiple flea beetle species. Most active in spring on young plants. Organic treatment Cover seedlings with floating row cover until plants are a few inches tall and growing strongly. Diatomaceous earth dusted on and around the leaves can help; reapply after rain.Use row covers on seedlings. Apply diatomaceous earth. Neem oil spray. Prevention Transplanting larger, more established plants rather than direct-sowing reduces flea beetle damage, since seedlings are most vulnerable.Delay transplanting until plants are large. Use transplants rather than seeds.
The control ladder

The ladder troubleshoots from the gentlest solution to the strongest. Start with the gentlest option and only move on when and if it doesn't work.

  1. Floating row cover

    Drape a floating row cover, a light fabric that lets sun and rain through, over young plants right after planting. Keep it on until they are a few inches tall and growing strongly, since seedlings take the worst of the damage.Row cover over new transplants excludes the beetles through the vulnerable seedling stage; remove once plants are established and outgrowing the shot-hole injury.

No spray for this one. Prevention is the control.

Spider mites
P · 04
Symptoms Leaves look dusty or stippled, with tiny yellow or tan dots covering the surface. In bad infestations you'll see fine webbing on the undersides of leaves. Leaves may look bronzed or dry at the edges. Mites thrive in hot, dry weather.Fine stippling or yellow dots on leaves. Fine webbing on leaf undersides. Leaves may bronze, dry out, and drop. Worst in hot dry weather. Cause Tiny mites, almost too small to see, that feed on leaves and leave fine specks or webbing. They thrive in hot, dry conditions.Tetranychus urticae and related species. Thrives in heat and drought. Organic treatment Spray the undersides of leaves with a strong jet of water every day for a week, which disrupts mite populations significantly. Follow up with neem oil or insecticidal soap applied to leaf undersides if the problem persists.Blast with water repeatedly. Apply neem oil or insecticidal soap to leaf undersides. Increase humidity around plants. Prevention Keep plants well-watered in hot weather; water-stressed plants are more vulnerable. Misting the leaves in the morning raises local humidity, which mites dislike.Keep plants well-watered in hot weather. Avoid dusty conditions. Introduce predatory mites.
The control ladder

The ladder troubleshoots from the gentlest solution to the strongest. Start with the gentlest option and only move on when and if it doesn't work.

  1. Even watering

    Keep the plants steadily watered through hot spells. Mites build up fastest on plants that are dry and stressed, so consistent moisture is your first line of defense.Maintain steady soil moisture in heat; drought-stressed plants favor rapid mite buildup, so irrigation consistency is the foundational check on populations.

  2. Water spray

    Spray a strong jet of water onto the undersides of the leaves every day for about a week. This breaks up the mite colonies and can set them back significantly. Do it early in the day so the leaves dry quickly.Repeated forceful sprays to the leaf undersides, daily over about a week, disrupt colonies and webbing; apply early in the day so foliage dries before evening.

  3. Buying and releasing natural enemies

    You can buy predatory mites, tiny mites that hunt the pest mites instead of feeding on plants, and release them onto an infested planting.Released predatory mites can suppress an active infestation; introduce them onto located colonies rather than ahead of the pest.

  4. Insecticidal soap

    If the mites persist after the water treatment, spray insecticidal soap onto the leaf undersides where they live. Avoid spraying drought-stressed plants or in heat above 90°F, since soap can burn leaves then.Insecticidal soap applied to the leaf undersides gives contact knockdown where coverage is thorough; skip water-stressed plants and temperatures above 90°F to avoid foliage burn.

  5. Neem oil

    Neem oil is an alternative spray, again aimed at the undersides of the leaves. Do not apply it in heat above 90°F or to plants that are already drought-stressed.Neem oil is the low-residue alternative when soap is not holding; underside coverage governs results, and the same heat and drought-stress restrictions apply.

The bottom rungs are products with label rules: timing, pollinators, and days to wait before harvest. Before you spray →

Diseases
Early blight
D · 01
Symptoms Dark brown spots on the lower leaves, often with rings inside them like a target pattern. The leaves around the spots turn yellow, then the whole leaf dies and drops. The pattern starts at the bottom of the plant and moves upward.Dark brown spots with concentric rings on lower leaves first. Affected leaves yellow and drop. Spreads upward through plant. Cause A fungus that causes dark spots on the lower, older leaves first. It spreads in warm, wet weather, so keep the leaves as dry as you can.Alternaria fungus. Favored by warm wet conditions. Organic treatment Remove and throw away (do not compost) any affected leaves as soon as you spot them. Mulch the soil around the base of the plant to stop rain from splashing soil and fungal spores up onto the lower leaves.Remove affected leaves immediately. Apply copper-based fungicide preventively. Mulch soil to prevent splash-up. Prevention Rotate your tomatoes, avoiding the same spot for at least 3 years. Water at the base of the plant rather than from overhead, and stake the plant to keep the foliage off the ground.Rotate tomatoes every 3-4 years. Water at soil level. Space plants for airflow. Stake to keep foliage off ground.
The control ladder

The ladder troubleshoots from the gentlest solution to the strongest. Start with the gentlest option and only move on when and if it doesn't work.

  1. Crop rotation

    Move your tomatoes to a fresh spot each year, and keep them out of the same bed for at least 3 years, so the fungus waiting in that soil runs out of hosts.A 3 to 4 year rotation away from tomato ground separates the crop from inoculum carried over in soil and debris.

  2. Water at the base

    Water at the base of the plant instead of sprinkling from overhead. Rain and splashing water carry the fungus from the soil up onto the lower leaves, so the drier the foliage stays, the slower it moves.Base watering keeps foliage dry and cuts the splash that lifts spores from the soil onto the lower canopy, which is where infection starts.

  3. Splash-barrier mulch

    Mulch the soil around the base of the plant. Rain hitting bare soil splashes the fungus up onto the lower leaves, and mulch takes that splash out of play.Mulching the soil under the plant stops rain splash from lifting soil and spores onto the lower foliage, the entry point this disease works upward from.

  4. Airflow and spacing

    Give each plant room, and stake it so air can move through the leaves and the foliage stays up off the ground. Leaves that dry quickly after rain get less disease.Spacing for airflow, plus staking to hold foliage off the soil, shortens leaf wetness and reduces the ground contact that feeds lower-leaf infection.

  5. Garden sanitation

    Pull off spotted leaves as soon as you see them and put them in the trash, not the compost pile. Getting infected leaves out early slows the disease's climb up the plant.Prompt removal of symptomatic leaves lowers in-season spread up the plant; destroy the tissue rather than composting it.

  6. Copper fungicide

    If it keeps spreading, a copper-based fungicide can help, but it works by protecting healthy leaves, so start early rather than waiting. Follow the label rate, and keep spray and runoff away from ponds and streams, since copper is very toxic to fish and other water life.Copper applied preventively protects uninfected tissue; begin before or at first sign rather than after spread. Observe label rates to avoid foliage injury, limit repeat use across seasons since copper accumulates at the soil surface, and keep it out of waterways.

The bottom rungs are products with label rules: timing, pollinators, and days to wait before harvest. Before you spray →

Blossom end rot
D · 02
Symptoms Dark, sunken, leathery patches on the bottom of the fruit, the end where the flower was attached. It usually appears on the first fruits of the season. It is not contagious and doesn't spread between plants.Dark, sunken, leathery patch at the bottom (blossom end) of fruit. Affects first fruits most. Not contagious. Cause A dark, sunken patch on the bottom of the fruit. It is not a pest or a disease: the fruit cannot get enough calcium, usually because watering has been uneven. Water steadily to prevent it.Calcium deficiency in developing fruit, caused by irregular watering or root damage, not a pest or disease. Organic treatment The fix is consistent watering, not calcium supplements. Mulch around the base to help the soil hold moisture evenly, and water on a regular schedule rather than in big irregular bursts. Remove affected fruit; they won't recover.Mulch to maintain even soil moisture. Water consistently. Foliar calcium spray provides some relief. Remove affected fruit. Prevention Water consistently and deeply, as the most common trigger is irregular watering during fruit development. Avoid disturbing the roots by cultivating too close to the plant, and don't over-fertilize with nitrogen, which pushes the plant to grow faster than it can absorb calcium.Consistent watering is the key prevention. Avoid root disturbance. Do not over-fertilize with nitrogen.
The control ladder

The ladder troubleshoots from the gentlest solution to the strongest. Start with the gentlest option and only move on when and if it doesn't work.

  1. Even watering

    Water deeply and on a steady schedule, not in big bursts after letting the soil dry out. Uneven watering is the usual trigger: the fruit cannot take up enough calcium when soil moisture swings, and calcium sprays are not the fix.Consistent deep irrigation is the primary control. The disorder is a calcium delivery failure in the sizing fruit, driven by moisture swings or root damage rather than by a pest or pathogen, so steady water does what supplements cannot.

  2. Mulch to steady soil moisture

    Spread mulch around the base of the plant. It evens out the swings between wet and dry soil, and those swings are what set off the rot on the fruit.Mulch buffers soil moisture between waterings, smoothing the wet-dry cycling that interrupts calcium movement into developing fruit.

  3. Garden sanitation

    Pick off and discard any fruit showing the dark sunken patch. Once it appears, that fruit will not recover.Cull affected fruit as it appears; the lesion is irreversible and not contagious, and it concentrates in the earliest fruit of the season.

No spray for this one. Prevention is the control.

Septoria leaf spot
D · 03
Symptoms Small circular spots on the leaves, with tan or pale gray centers with dark brown borders, often with a faint yellow halo around the outside. They start on the lower leaves and move upward. Not as aggressive as early blight but disfiguring.Small circular spots with dark borders and pale gray centers, starting on lower leaves. Spots may have yellow halos. Cause A common fungus that makes many small, round spots on the leaves. It spreads in wet conditions, so water at the soil and keep the leaves dry.Septoria lycopersici fungus. One of the most common tomato diseases. Organic treatment Remove affected leaves immediately. Apply copper-based fungicide if the problem is spreading. Improve airflow by staking or caging so leaves aren't touching each other.Remove affected leaves. Apply copper fungicide. Ensure good air circulation. Prevention Water at the soil level rather than overhead. Mulch to prevent soil splash. Rotate tomatoes to a different bed each year.Rotate crops. Water at soil level. Mulch around plants.
The control ladder

The ladder troubleshoots from the gentlest solution to the strongest. Start with the gentlest option and only move on when and if it doesn't work.

  1. Crop rotation

    Give your tomatoes a different bed each year so the fungus left behind in the old spot does not find them again.Annual rotation out of last year's tomato ground separates the crop from overwintered inoculum.

  2. Water at the base

    Water at the soil, not over the top of the plant. The spots spread in wet conditions, so keeping the leaves dry slows the disease down.Soil-level irrigation denies the splash dispersal this fungus relies on and keeps leaf wetness periods short.

  3. Splash-barrier mulch

    Put mulch down over the soil under the plant so rain cannot splash the fungus up onto the leaves.A mulch layer over the soil denies the splash route the spots use to reach the lower leaves; pair it with base watering so neither rain nor the hose does the carrying.

  4. Airflow and spacing

    Stake or cage the plants so the leaves are not resting against each other. Air moving between them dries the foliage faster, which slows new spots.Staking or caging to separate foliage improves circulation through the canopy; faster drying checks new infection.

  5. Garden sanitation

    Pull off spotted leaves the moment you notice them. The disease starts on the lowest leaves and works upward, so early removal buys you time.Immediate removal of symptomatic lower leaves slows the upward progression; destroy the tissue rather than leaving it in the bed.

  6. Copper fungicide

    If the spots keep multiplying despite the steps above, a copper-based fungicide is the next step. Follow the label rate so it does not burn the leaves, and keep spray and runoff away from ponds and streams, since copper is very toxic to fish and other water life.Copper is warranted when spread continues despite sanitation and dry foliage; it protects clean tissue rather than curing spotted leaves, so begin at first sign. Limit repeat seasons of use, as copper persists at the soil surface.

The bottom rungs are products with label rules: timing, pollinators, and days to wait before harvest. Before you spray →

Late blight
D · 04
Symptoms Large, irregularly shaped brown patches that look water-soaked and spread fast, days not weeks. In humid weather you may see white fuzzy growth on the undersides of affected leaves. This one is serious; it can kill a healthy plant in a week.Water-soaked, rapidly expanding brown patches on leaves and stems. White fuzzy growth on undersides in humid conditions. Can destroy plants in days. Cause A fast-moving disease that can collapse a plant within days in cool, wet weather. Remove and throw away affected plants right away so it does not spread.Phytophthora infestans oomycete. The same pathogen that caused the Irish potato famine. Spreads rapidly in cool wet weather. Organic treatment Remove and destroy all affected plant material immediately, bag it and throw it in the trash, do not compost it. Apply copper-based fungicide preventively if you see it starting in your area and conditions are wet.Remove and destroy all affected material immediately, do not compost. Apply copper fungicide preventively in wet conditions. Prevention Choose disease-resistant varieties whenever possible. Stake for good airflow. Never leave tomato plant debris in the garden over winter, clear it all out at season's end.Plant resistant varieties. Ensure excellent airflow. Never leave tomato debris in the garden over winter.
The control ladder

The ladder troubleshoots from the gentlest solution to the strongest. Start with the gentlest option and only move on when and if it doesn't work.

  1. Resistant varieties

    When you buy seed, look for varieties described as resistant to late blight whenever you can find them. With a disease that can kill a healthy plant in a week, the variety you choose is the biggest lever you have.Resistant cultivars are the highest-leverage control against a pathogen that can destroy plants in days; the decision is made at seed-buying time.

  2. Airflow and spacing

    Stake the plants and give them room so air movement keeps the leaves as dry as possible. The disease moves fastest in cool, damp conditions.Generous spacing and staking maximize airflow and shorten the leaf wetness this oomycete needs; spread is fastest in cool, wet weather.

  3. Garden sanitation

    At the first sign, remove every affected plant part, bag it, and put it in the trash. Do not compost it, since the disease can survive there and carry over. At season's end, clear all tomato debris out of the garden rather than leaving it over winter.Remove and destroy all symptomatic material immediately, bagged for the trash rather than composted, and strip tomato debris from the garden at season's end so nothing carries the pathogen into the next year.

  4. Copper fungicide

    If late blight is showing up in your area and the weather is wet, a copper-based fungicide applied before your plants have symptoms can help protect them. Follow the label, and keep spray and runoff away from ponds and streams, since copper is very toxic to fish and other water life.Copper is purely protective here: apply ahead of infection when regional presence and wet conditions align, since it does not cure tissue already infected. Observe label rates and limit repeat use across seasons, as copper accumulates at the soil surface.

The bottom rungs are products with label rules: timing, pollinators, and days to wait before harvest. Before you spray →

Verified · 4 sources View
Seasoned
Where to plant next year

Crop rotation

Move your tomatoes to a different part of the garden each year, and don't come back to the same spot for at least 3 years. Soil diseases, including the wilts and blights that affect tomatoes, can survive in the soil or on old plant debris for multiple seasons. Rotation is the main tool home gardeners have to keep these in check. The same rule applies to peppers, eggplant, and potatoes: they share the same diseases, so avoid planting any of them where tomatoes grew recently.Rotate nightshades to a fresh bed every 3 years minimum. Soilborne pathogens, particularly Fusarium wilt (Fusarium oxysporum f. sp. lycopersici), Verticillium wilt, and early blight (Alternaria solani), can persist in soil or on plant debris for multiple seasons. Fusarium and Verticillium are soil-systemic and resistant to most home-garden interventions once established; the primary management tool for the home gardener is rotation combined with resistant varieties. Avoid planting tomatoes after any Solanaceae crop (peppers, eggplant, potatoes), as these share the same pathogen suite.

Family
Nightshade family (Solanaceae)
Years between
3 years
in the same bed
Avoid following
Do not plant cherry tomatoes where you grew tomatoes, peppers, eggplant, or potatoes last year. These plants are all in the same family and share the same soil diseases, which can build up and carry over to the next crop.Tomatoes, peppers, eggplant, potatoes, all share blight and fusarium diseases
Plant after
Brassicas, legumes, corn, root vegetables
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In the app · pre-launch

When plant taps you on the shoulder

The plant app sends a timely reminder at every critical moment of your cherry tomato season. The wording adjusts to whichever you pick: beginner or seasoned. Here are three you'll see in Zone 9.

p
plant
6 weeks before last frost
Time to start your tomato seeds indoors Time to start your tomatoes indoors
Your last frost date is about 6 weeks away, now is the right window to start tomato seeds. Fill small trays or cells with seed-starting mix, plant one or two seeds per cell about a quarter inch deep, and put them somewhere warm (70 to 80°F is ideal). Cover with a plastic dome or cling wrap until you see sprouts, then remove it right away. This is where your season begins. Your last frost date is about 6 weeks away, the perfect window to get tomato seeds into trays. Find somewhere warm (70-80°F), keep the soil consistently moist, and cover with a dome until you see sprouts. This is where your season begins.
p
plant
10 days before last frost
Start introducing your tomatoes to the outdoors Start hardening off your tomatoes
Your last frost is 10 days away, time to start hardening off your seedlings. Put them outside for a couple of hours in a sheltered, partly shaded spot today, then bring them back in. Add more time and more direct sun each day over the next week or two. This gradual transition helps them adapt to wind, sun, and temperature swings before they go out for good. Your last frost is 10 days away. Begin putting your plants outside for a few hours each day, starting sheltered and increasing exposure gradually. This week of adjustment makes a real difference to how they settle in after transplanting.
p
plant
Last frost arrives
Frost has passed, your tomatoes are ready to go out Last frost has passed, time to transplant
Now is the time to transplant. Dig a hole deeper than the pot and bury the stem right up to the lowest set of leaves, as roots form all along the buried stem and make for a stronger plant. Water well, and if the weather is still cool, wait for nighttime temps to be consistently above 50°F before planting out. Your tomatoes are ready to go outside for good. Plant them deep: bury the stem right up to the lowest set of leaves. Roots will form all along the buried stem and give you a stronger, more drought-tolerant plant.
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Ask the gardener

Common questions

Why are my cherry tomatoes splitting?
01 of 05
Splitting usually means uneven watering. When tomatoes have been thirsty and then suddenly get a lot of water (from rain or a deep soak), the inside of the fruit swells faster than the skin can stretch, and the skin tears. The fix is steady watering on a regular schedule. Don't let the soil dry out completely before watering again. Mulch (a few inches of straw, leaves, or wood chips over the soil) helps the soil stay moist between waterings. If a tomato splits, pick it within a day so it doesn't attract bugs or rot. Splitting happens when a fruit's skin stops stretching but the inside keeps expanding, usually after a heavy watering or rainstorm following a dry spell. The cells push outward faster than the skin can grow with them, and the skin cracks. Consistent watering is the fix: water deeply on a regular schedule rather than letting the bed go dry and then soaking it. Mulch helps stabilize soil moisture. Once a fruit splits, pick it within a day or two to keep the wound from inviting pests or rot.
Why are flowers falling off without making fruit?
02 of 05
Tomato flowers drop when the plant is stressed. The two main causes are extreme heat (days above 90 degrees or nights below 55) and drying out between waterings. When it gets too hot, the pollen inside the flowers stops working and the plant abandons fruit it can't carry. During a heat wave there's not much to do except keep watering steadily and wait for the weather to cool. Shade cloth (a piece of light fabric stretched above the plants) helps during the hottest weeks. Production usually picks back up when temperatures come down. Blossom drop on tomatoes is a stress response. Two main triggers: temperature extremes (daytime above 90°F or nighttime below 55°F shuts down pollen viability) and water stress (the plant aborts flowers it can't sustain). Heat is the more common culprit in warm zones. There's no save during a heat wave, but consistent watering, shade cloth during the worst weeks, and choosing heat-tolerant varieties helps. Production usually resumes when temperatures normalize.
Do cherry tomatoes need staking or caging?
03 of 05
Yes, almost always. Most cherry tomato varieties keep growing all season and can get over 6 feet tall, with branches loaded down with fruit. Without support they fall over, the fruit ends up on the soil and rots, and diseases that live in the soil spread up to the leaves more easily. Use a sturdy cage (the small 3-foot ones from garden centers are usually too flimsy; look for something heavy-duty) or tie the main stem to a tall stake as the plant grows. Set the support up at planting time so you're not trying to stuff a big bushy plant into a cage later. The exception is a few small compact varieties like Tumbling Tom that stay short enough for a hanging basket. Yes for nearly all cherry varieties. Most cherry tomatoes are indeterminate, meaning the plant grows continuously and can reach 6 feet or more by season's end. Without support, the plants sprawl, fruit touches the soil and rots, and disease pressure climbs. Heavy-duty cages (the standard 3-foot conical cages from a garden center are usually too flimsy) or a stake-and-string trellis system both work. Set the support at transplant time, before the plant gets bushy; trying to wrestle a mature plant into a cage breaks branches. The exception is determinate compact varieties like Tumbling Tom or Patio Choice, which stay short enough for a smaller cage or hanging basket.
Should I refrigerate cherry tomatoes after picking?
04 of 05
No, room temperature is best. The cold of a refrigerator damages tomato cells and makes them mealy and flavorless, and the damage doesn't reverse. Keep them on the counter, out of direct sun, with the stem scar facing down (that side loses moisture fastest). Don't stack them in a pile because the weight bruises the ones on the bottom. They hold for 1 to 2 weeks. The only time to refrigerate is if a ripe tomato is about to go bad and you need to save it for a day or two. No. Refrigerator temperatures (below 50°F) cause chilling injury in tomatoes: the cell membranes lose their structure and the texture becomes mealy, the flavor flattens. The damage is permanent. Keep ripe tomatoes on the counter, out of direct sun, stem-side down, in a single layer (stacking bruises the bottom ones). They hold 1 to 2 weeks at room temperature. The only exception is if a ripe tomato is about to spoil and you need to buy 1 or 2 days; in that case refrigerate, but use within 48 hours.
Can I grow cherry tomatoes in pots or containers?
05 of 05
Yes, cherry tomatoes do well in pots. Use at least a 5-gallon pot for each plant (smaller pots dry out too fast and don't give the roots enough room). Make sure the pot has drainage holes so water can escape. Fill it with potting mix from the garden center, not soil from your yard (yard soil packs down and doesn't drain well in pots). Container tomatoes need watering more often than ones in the ground, usually every day in hot weather, and they need fertilizing more often too because water washing through the pot carries nutrients out. Look for varieties labeled 'patio' or 'compact' for the best fit; the small types like Tumbling Tom even do well in a hanging basket. Yes, and they're one of the better tomato classes for containers. Use at least a 5-gallon pot per plant; smaller pots dry out too fast and limit root development. Drainage holes are non-negotiable. Use a quality potting mix (not garden soil, which compacts in containers). Containers dry out faster than beds, often needing daily watering in summer heat, and need more frequent fertilizer because nutrients leach out with the runoff. Choose compact or 'patio' varieties (Tumbling Tom, Patio Choice, Sungold) for the best container performance, though most indeterminate cherry varieties will produce in a 5 to 7 gallon pot with a sturdy stake.

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Methodology & sources

Every date, temperature, spacing, and recommendation on this page is sourced from university cooperative extension publications, peer-reviewed agricultural research, NOAA climate data, and direct extension calendars. Where claims are softer (traditional gardening wisdom not formally documented), we say so.

Research-backed Documented in cooperative extension publications or peer-reviewed research
Well-grounded A known agronomic principle, but not formally tested for this specific pair
Traditional Time-tested gardening wisdom, limited formal research support
Last reviewed
June 6, 2026
Data version
crops_data_final · v1.0 · schema 2.9
Sources cited on this page
16 publications
Verified entries
Companion-planting claims tagged inline · zone dates verified against 5+ extensions
See all sources cited on this page
  • University of Minnesota Extension umn_ext
  • University of Maryland Extension umd_ext
  • Cornell Cooperative Extension cornell_ext
  • Iowa State University Extension iastate_ext
  • Michigan State University Extension msu_ext
  • NC State Extension ncsu_ext
  • Penn State Extension psu_ext
  • U. of Illinois Urbana-Champaign Extension uiuc_ext
  • UC Davis Postharvest Center ucd_postharvest
  • Texas A&M AgriLife Extension tamu_agrilife
  • Virginia Cooperative Extension 426-331 vce_426_331
  • Piedmont Master Gardeners piedmont_mg
  • UGA Vegetable Garden Calendar uga_calendar
  • Clemson Home & Garden Information Center clemson_hgic
  • UC IPM Statewide IPM Program uc_ipm
  • NOAA 1991-2020 Climate Normals noaa_normals

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Vol. 003 · Cherry Tomato · plant.lifestyle