Beginner Seasoned
Pick your zone and the dates re-calibrate.
The Guide Herbs Vol. 003

Rosemary

in Zone 5, this week

Rosemary is an evergreen shrubby herb with fragrant, needle-like leaves and small blue flowers. It comes from the dry Mediterranean, so it loves sun and hates wet feet. You grow it mostly for the leaves, which you can snip year round in mild climates. It is less cold hardy than sage or thyme: it lives outdoors year after year only in warmer areas (about zone 7 or 8 and up), and in cold-winter places most people grow it in a pot and bring it inside for the winter. Give it full sun, fast-draining soil, and go easy on the water, since too much water is the fastest way to kill it. Rosemary (Salvia rosmarinus, formerly Rosmarinus officinalis) is a woody evergreen Mediterranean subshrub in the mint family, grown mainly for its aromatic, needle-like culinary leaves and secondarily for its small blue flowers. It comes in upright forms that reach several feet and low trailing forms that spill over walls. Unlike hardier culinary perennials such as sage and thyme, rosemary is relatively cold tender: it is reliably perennial only in mild zones (roughly zone 7 or 8 and warmer, with the hardy cultivar Arp pushing into zone 6), and in colder regions it is grown as an annual or overwintered indoors in a pot. It wants full sun, lean sharply drained soil, and little water; overwatering and wet, poorly drained soil, not cold alone, are its most common killers.

Rosemary mature plant
Fig. 01 · Rosemary, mature Zone 5
Container
5 gal
min 2 gal pot
Sunlight
Full sun
6-8 hrs daily
Water
Low
Spacing
24-36"
between plants
Soil pH
6-7
slightly acidic
Today · in your zone

What's happening right now

July 24 · Zone 5 · Stage 01 · Plant out

Off-season for rosemary in zone 5.

The growing year

Your rosemary year, month by month

Grown as a perennial Northern Tier, Zone 5

Rosemary usually will not survive a zone 5 winter in the ground. Either grow it for one season or, better, keep it in a pot you move somewhere bright and protected for the cold months, then set it back out in spring. The tough cultivar Arp can sometimes make it through in a sheltered spot.Annual or container. Zone 5 is colder than rosemary's reliable hardiness (about zone 7 to 8), so it is grown as a single-season plant or, better, kept in a container moved to a bright, cool, protected spot for winter and set back out after frost. Hardy cultivars such as Arp can overwinter in a very sheltered, sharply drained zone 6 microclimate, but this is not the reliable default.

Once established, lavender settles into the same rhythm year after year: a winter rest, fresh spring growth, an early-summer bloom you cut for fragrant bundles, then a hard cut-back that keeps the plant compact and flowering for years.

Jan
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▲ We are here
Rosemary’s year
off-season
plant
growing
bloom
off-season
Plant
plant
plant
BloomGrowingOff-seasonPlant
Plant
Apr 15 - May 6
Bloom
Jun 24 - Aug 5
Cut back after bloom Trim rosemary to shape it after it flowers, or in spring, cutting only into the green leafy growth. It usually will not grow back from bare woody stems, so never cut into the old wood. Snipping sprigs as you cook keeps it bushy, but do not cut it back hard right before winter.Shape rosemary and control its size after the main bloom, or in spring, by cutting into soft green growth only. Rosemary does not reliably resprout from bare, leafless wood, so never cut hard into the old woody base. Regular light harvesting doubles as pruning and keeps the plant bushy; avoid a hard cut heading into a hard freeze.
The season, mapped

Seed to garden

The easy, reliable way to grow rosemary is to buy a small plant or take a cutting from an existing one. Growing it from seed is slow and unpredictable, and seed-grown plants often do not match the parent, so most gardeners skip it. If you do want to try seed, surface-sow it and do not cover it, since the seed needs light to sprout, keep it warm around 70°F, and start indoors about 10 weeks before your last frost; expect slow, uneven germination.Rosemary is almost always started from a nursery transplant or from stem cuttings, not from seed. Seed germinates slowly and unevenly and can take about three years to reach a mature plant, and named cultivars do not come true from seed, so growers propagate them from cuttings. Take tip cuttings a few inches long, root them with warmth (bottom heat around 70 to 75°F), and they root in a couple of weeks. To grow from seed instead, surface-sow at about 70°F since the seed needs light, starting indoors roughly 10 weeks before the last frost; germination is slow and uneven and the seedlings size up gradually, which is why most growers still choose cuttings.

  1. 01
    Plant out
    Apr 15 - May 6
Start method
Nursery transplant
Soil temp
70-70°F
From seed to fruit

The growing journey

Stage 01 · Plant out
01
Plant out
A small bushy plant with green needle-like leaves and roots that hold the potting soil together when you slide it out.A compact young plant with firm, needle-covered stems and roots filling the nursery pot, ready to set out once frost has passed.
Gently loosen the roots, plant so the top of the rootball is level with the soil, and water once. Skip the fertilizer and rich compost.Loosen the rootball, set the crown level with the soil surface, and water in once to settle the roots. Do not add rich compost or fertilizer; rosemary wants lean ground.
FROM PLANT · Rosemary does best in poor, dry soil, so do not add fertilizer or rich compost. Give it your sunniest spot, and if your soil is heavy or your area is humid, plant it on a little mound or raised bed so water drains away.Plant rosemary lean and dry, not rich. Skip the compost-and-fertilizer routine other plants want, give it your sunniest, sharpest-draining spot, and on clay or in a humid region build a mound or raised bed. Wet, poorly drained soil is what kills rosemary.
FROM PLANT · Leave about 24 to 36 inches between plants. That space lets air move around each one, which helps prevent the leaf problems rosemary can get when it stays damp.Space plants 24 to 36 inches apart for airflow. Good air circulation between plants is one of the simplest ways to head off the foliar disease rosemary can get in damp or crowded conditions.
02
Establishment (year one)
New green needle growth filling in. You want it bushy and full, not tall and bare.Steady new green growth on the stem tips. The plant should be filling in bushy rather than stretching.
Water fairly often until it takes hold, then water deeply but less often. Pinch the tips to help it grow bushy, and only snip a little. Do not feed it.Water regularly until the plant is settled, then taper to deep, infrequent watering. Pinch the growing tips to build a bushy shape, and harvest only lightly. Hold off on fertilizer.
FROM PLANT · The first year is about growing roots. Water fairly often until it takes hold, then water deeply but less often. Pinch the tips so it grows bushy. It takes a couple of years to reach full size.Year one is about roots, not size. Water regularly until the plant is settled, then taper toward deep and infrequent. Pinch the growing tips to build a bushy framework; a plant reaches full size in about three years.
FROM PLANT · Try not to feed it. Rosemary needs very little, and too much fertilizer gives you soft leaves with weaker flavor. The same is true for water, where more is not better.Resist the urge to feed. Rosemary has low fertility needs, and over-fertilizing produces soft, lush growth with weaker flavor and fewer flowers. The same goes for water: more is not better.
03
Growing and harvest
Fresh green growth on the tips, which is the tender part to cook with.Soft green new growth at the stem tips, the best part for cooking and for cuttings.
Snip sprigs from the green tips as you need them, but do not take more than about a fifth at once. Pinch the tips to keep it full, and water deeply but not often.Snip sprigs from the soft green growth as needed, taking no more than about 20 percent at a time, and pinch tips to keep the plant bushy. Water deeply but infrequently.
FROM PLANT · Snip sprigs as you cook, but take no more than about a fifth of the plant at a time. Regular light cutting keeps rosemary bushy and gives you fresh leaves.Harvest little and often. Snip sprigs from the soft green growth as you cook, taking no more than about 20 percent of the plant at once, which both supplies the kitchen and keeps the plant bushy.
FROM PLANT · In hot dry spells, spray the plant with water now and then to keep spider mites away. Rosemary is drought tolerant, but do not let it get badly stressed for too long.In hot, dry weather, hose the plant off now and then to discourage spider mites, and never let it sit drought-stressed for long stretches even though it is drought tolerant.
04
Bloom
Little blue flowers along the stems and lots of bees. It is a good time to cut sprigs for cooking.Small pale blue (sometimes pink or white) flowers along the stems, and busy bees. This is a good time to harvest for the best flavor.
Enjoy the flowers and cut sprigs for the best flavor. Keep watering deeply but rarely, and do not fertilize.Enjoy the flowers and the pollinators, and harvest sprigs for peak flavor. Keep watering deep and infrequent and do not feed.
FROM PLANT · The leaves taste strongest right before and during flowering, so this is a great time to cut sprigs to use fresh or to dry. Cut in the morning after the dew dries.Leaf flavor and oil are strongest just before and during flowering, so this is the prime window to harvest for fresh use and for drying. Harvest in the morning once any dew has dried.
FROM PLANT · Leave some flowers for the bees, which love them. On your own unsprayed plants, the flowers are edible too, not just the leaves.Leave some flowers for the bees. Rosemary blooms are a strong pollinator draw and, on English-clean unsprayed plants, both flowers and leaves are edible.
05
Shape and light prune
A plant done with its main flowers that has gotten a bit loose. Notice the bare woody stems lower down and do not cut into those.A plant that has finished its main bloom and could use shaping. Below the green growth are bare woody stems; those are your no-cut zone.
Trim into the green growth to shape it, and use what you cut in cooking. Do not cut into the old wood, and do not prune right before a hard freeze.Trim lightly into green growth to shape and size the plant, using the trimmings in the kitchen. Avoid a hard cut into old wood, and do not prune heading into a hard freeze.
FROM PLANT · Shape rosemary by trimming only the green, leafy parts. It usually will not grow back from bare woody stems, so never cut hard into the old wood.Shape rosemary by cutting into green, leafy growth only. It does not reliably resprout from bare, leafless wood, so never cut back hard into the old woody base the way you might a fast-renewing shrub.
FROM PLANT · Do your shaping after it flowers or in spring, not right before winter. Cutting it back late leaves this cold-sensitive plant open to freeze damage.Time shaping cuts after the main bloom or in spring, not right before winter. A late-season hard cut leaves the cold-tender plant vulnerable to freeze damage.
06
Winter (cold zones)
A plant that has stopped growing. In mild areas it stays green; in cold areas a plant left outside will turn brown and die after a hard freeze.A plant that has stopped putting on new growth. Outdoors in mild zones it holds its green needles; in cold zones a tender plant left out will brown and die after a hard freeze.
In warm areas, stop watering and feeding and save trimming for spring. In cold areas, bring potted rosemary inside to a bright, cool spot before hard frost, water only when dry, and do not feed it.In hardy zones, stop watering and feeding and leave hard pruning for spring. In cold zones, bring container plants to a bright, cool indoor spot before the first hard freeze, water only when dry, and do not feed.
FROM PLANT · In cold areas, bring potted rosemary inside before the first hard freeze and keep it in the brightest, coolest spot you have. Indoors, give it good light, do not overwater, but do not let it dry out completely either.In cold zones, bring container rosemary indoors before the first hard freeze to a bright, cool spot; it prefers cool nights around 40 to 50°F. Indoors the challenges are enough light, not overwatering, and not letting it dry out completely.
FROM PLANT · If you want to leave rosemary outside in a borderline-cold area, choose a tough type. Arp can handle zone 6 and Hill Hardy zone 7 if the soil drains well and the spot is sheltered.Pick a hardy cultivar if you want to leave rosemary outdoors in a cold-marginal zone. Arp survives into zone 6 and Hill Hardy into zone 7 with sharp drainage and a sheltered, south-facing site.
Beginner
Know your soil

Your soil

Identify yours

Not sure what soil you have? Grab a small handful of damp soil from your garden bed and squeeze it. If it crumbles apart easily, it's sandy. If it holds together but breaks when you poke it, it's loam (what most vegetables want). If it stays in a hard, slippery ball, it's clay.

What this crop wants

Rosemary likes poor, dry, gritty soil and full sun. Rich, damp soil and heavy clay make it weak and rot-prone, so the goal is fast drainage, not fertility. If your soil is heavy, plant rosemary on a mound or raised bed and mix in coarse sand or grit so water drains straight through.

If your soil doesn't match

You have sandy soil

Mix 2-3 inches of compost into the top 6 inches of your bed before planting. Compost holds moisture (which sandy soil drains too fast) and adds the nutrients sandy soil tends to lack. Repeat each season. Compost breaks down over time.

You have clay soil

Mix 2-3 inches of compost AND a few inches of coarse sand or perlite into the top 6 inches of your bed. The compost feeds the plants; the sand breaks up the clay so air and water can move through. Don't add sand without compost. It can compact like concrete.

Containers and raised beds

If amending your soil sounds like too much work, or if your soil is heavy clay, full of rocks, or contaminated, build over it. A raised bed at least 12 inches deep filled with a 50/50 mix of compost and sandy loam gives you ideal growing soil with no battles. A 5-gallon container with quality potting mix does the same for one plant at a time. Both bypass your native soil entirely.

Learn more about your soil
The specs

Care guide

The numbers that matter, at a glance.

Sunlight
Full sun · 6-8 hrs/day
Water
low
Spacing
24-36 inches
Soil pH
6 to 7
Container OK?
Yes · 2+ gal pot
Germination temp
70-70°F
Soil chemistry

Soil pH for rosemary

Preferred
6 to 7
Tolerated
5.5 to 8

Rosemary likes soil that is slightly acidic to neutral, about pH 6.0 to 7.0, and is not fussy within a fairly wide range. Do not worry too much about the exact number; good drainage matters much more to rosemary than pH does.Rosemary does best in slightly acidic to neutral soil, roughly pH 6.0 to 7.0, and tolerates a wider band from about 5.5 to 8.0. Extension herb guidance clusters around pH 6 to 7.5, and rosemary is adaptable as long as the soil drains sharply; getting drainage right matters far more than fine-tuning pH.

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Steady hand on the hose

Watering

When & how much
Frequency
Water deeply but not often. Give a new plant regular water until it settles in, then only water once in a while, letting the soil dry out in between.Deep and infrequent. Water regularly the first season until the plant is established, then taper to occasional deep soakings, letting the soil dry between waterings. Overwatering is the single biggest cause of decline.
Amount
A good soak when you do water, then let it dry out before the next one.Enough to soak the root zone, then nothing until the soil has dried; mature plants in the ground need only infrequent deep irrigations.
Method
Pour water at the base, not over the leaves, and let it dry out before watering again. Soggy soil is what makes rosemary rot.Water at the base and let the soil dry between waterings. Keep the crown and roots from staying wet, which invites root and crown rot; proper drainage is the real secret.
Signs of trouble
Too much water
If the leaves yellow, tips brown, and shoots wilt or die back even though you are watering, the problem is almost always too much water. Soggy roots rot.Yellowing needles, browning tips, wilting or dieback of whole shoots, and a plant that fails despite watering signal too-wet roots and likely root or crown rot, not drought.
Too little water
Rosemary almost never gets too little water once established. A little droop on a very hot afternoon that bounces back by morning is fine.Established rosemary rarely shows true drought stress; brief wilting in extreme heat that recovers overnight is normal and not a reason to water more.
Feeding rhythm

Feeding

Frequency
rarely
Type
None to minimal
When to start
At planting only

Rosemary barely needs feeding. A little compost at planting is enough. Feeding it heavily gives you a lot of soft leaves with weaker flavor and scent, and a plant that is more likely to get sick or die back in winter.Rosemary has low fertility needs and is easy to over-feed. A little compost worked in at planting, or a single light application of a balanced fertilizer in spring, is plenty. Excess fertilizer pushes soft, lush growth that has weaker flavor and fragrance, flowers less, and is more prone to disease and winter injury.

Lean soil, minimal feed

N/A. There is no fertilizer number to hit here, since the goal is to feed rosemary as little as possible.N/A. Rosemary is not fed to an N-P-K target; the aim is lean soil and minimal-to-no supplemental feed, so no fertilizer analysis applies.

Who grows well together

Companion planting

Grow rosemary next to other plants that also like full sun and dry soil, such as sage, thyme, and oregano, so you can water the whole group the same light way. Its flowers bring in bees and helpful bugs. Keep it away from plants that need a lot of water, because that wet soil will rot your rosemary. Rosemary pairs naturally with other sun-loving, drought-tolerant, lean-soil plants that share its need for sharp drainage, especially fellow Mediterranean herbs like sage, thyme, and oregano that can all run on the same dry, waterwise schedule. As a small flowering plant it draws pollinators and beneficial insects such as bees and butterflies. Keep it away from thirsty, rich-soil neighbors that force the wet conditions which rot rosemary.

Other
Sage
Likes the same sunny, dry spot, so it grows happily next to rosemary.Sage is one of rosemary's easiest partners because it asks for the same things: full sun, lean fast-draining soil, and not much water. That shared appetite is the real reason it works, since you can run the whole herb bed on one dry, waterwise schedule and avoid the overwatering that rots rosemary. Both are woody Mediterranean subshrubs, so they age and shape up similarly. Plant them in the same gritty, well-drained ground and resist the urge to pamper either. Traditional
Thyme
Another dry-soil, full-sun herb that pairs well with rosemary.Thyme and rosemary are natural bedfellows, both Mediterranean herbs that want full sun, sharp drainage, and little water. Low, spreading thyme fills in around upright rosemary and softens the front of a dry border, and the two never fight over water because neither wants much. Grow them in the same lean, well-drained soil and water sparingly once established. Traditional
Oregano
Handles heat and dry soil like rosemary does.Oregano is a tough, drought-tolerant Mediterranean herb that thrives on the same neglect rosemary does: full sun, poor lean soil, and minimal water. That makes it an easy companion that will not pull the bed toward the rich, damp conditions rosemary hates. Keep the soil gritty and well-drained for both, and water only when it dries out. Traditional
Herb or perennial
Lavender
A woody Mediterranean subshrub with matching lean-soil, full-sun, sharp-drainage needs and a strong pollinator draw. Traditional
plant alongside in full sun
Cabbage and beans
Traditional companion lore holds that aromatic rosemary planted near cabbages and beans helps mask them from some pests; useful as a beneficial-insect draw more than a proven repellent. Traditional
plant alongside in full sun
Keep apart from
Basil and mint Basil and mint both want consistently moist, richer soil and frequent water, the opposite of rosemary's lean and dry regime; growing them in the same bed forces the wet conditions that rot rosemary. Mint is also aggressively spreading. Grow these thirsty herbs separately. Traditional
Provenance tagged inline · see methodology for the labeling system Key
Harvest signals

When to pick

You grow rosemary for the leaves, and in mild areas you can snip sprigs almost any time of year. For the best flavor, cut sprigs from the soft green growth in the morning, especially just before it flowers. Snip stems just above a leafy joint so the plant grows back bushy, and take no more than about a fifth of the plant at once. To dry it, cut sprigs before or during flowering, hang small bunches somewhere warm and airy, and strip the leaves off once they are dry.Rosemary is grown for its leaves, and in mild climates you can snip fresh sprigs almost year round. For the strongest flavor and oil, harvest sprigs from the soft green growth in the morning, just before or as the plant begins to flower. Cut individual stems above a leafy node to encourage bushy regrowth, and do not remove more than about 20 percent of the plant at any one time. For drying, cut sprigs before or at flowering, then hang them in small bundles in a warm, airy place and strip the leaves once dry.

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Yield

What to expect

One grown rosemary plant gives you more sprigs than you will likely use, and in mild areas you can cut from it almost year round, as long as you do not take more than about a fifth at once.A mature plant supplies far more than a kitchen needs: sprigs can be cut continuously through the growing season, and nearly year round in mild climates, as long as you never remove more than about 20 percent at a time. Upright types yield the most cuttable growth once they reach full size in about three years.

Only harvest a little the first year. Pinching the tips helps the plant bulk up for bigger harvests later.Expect only light harvests the first year; pinching tips to build a bushy framework pays off in later seasons.

What changes yield
Plant age and size (full production at about three years)Cultivar and form (large upright types yield more cuttable growth than trailing types)Full sun and lean, sharply drained soilRegular light harvest and tip pinching to keep growth green and productive
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Pick your variety

Recommended varieties

There are two main shapes of rosemary: tall upright types (like Tuscan Blue) that grow into shrubs, and low trailing types (like Prostratus) that hang over the edge of a pot or wall. In cold-winter areas the key is picking a hardy type: Arp is the toughest and can take zone 6, with Hill Hardy and Salem close behind for zone 7. Most other kinds only survive winter outdoors in warmer areas. For cooking, any upright green rosemary is great.Rosemary reaches the grower in two broad forms: upright types (Tuscan Blue, Barbecue, and the culinary standards) that make several-foot shrubs, and low, trailing types (Prostratus and similar) that spill over walls and pots. Because rosemary is cold tender, cultivar choice is really a hardiness choice in colder gardens: Arp is the hardiest, surviving into zone 6, and Hill Hardy and Salem are close behind for zone 7, while most other cultivars and the trailing forms are reliable only in about zones 8 to 10. For cooking, any of the upright green-needled types work well; for a container or a wall, choose a trailing form.

Tuscan Blue
culinary + ornamental
Arp
culinary + ornamental
Hill Hardy
culinary + ornamental
Barbecue
culinary
Prostratus
ornamental + culinary
Salem
culinary
Off the vine

Storing your harvest

Room temp
Fresh sprigs last a few days in a glass of water on the counter. To keep them longer, put them in the fridge or dry them.Fresh-cut sprigs keep a few days standing in a glass of water on the counter, like cut flowers. For anything longer, refrigerate or dry them.
Fridge
Wrap sprigs in a slightly damp paper towel, put them in a bag, and keep them in the fridge for a week or two.Wrap fresh sprigs loosely in a slightly damp paper towel, seal in a bag, and refrigerate; they hold for one to two weeks.
Freezer
Freeze whole sprigs in a bag, or chop the leaves and freeze them in a little oil in an ice-cube tray. Frozen rosemary keeps for months and works well in cooked food.Freeze whole sprigs in a sealed bag, or strip and chop the leaves and freeze them in a little oil or water in ice-cube trays; frozen rosemary keeps for months and is best used in cooked dishes.
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From the garden to the kitchen

Recipes to try

Preserves & Condiments

Garden Herb Salt

Preserves & Condiments · 10m · Serves 20
Mains

Roasted Root Vegetable Tray

Mains · 60m · Serves 4
Mains

Forty Clove Chicken

Mains · 70m · Serves 4
More recipes
arriving with the harvest
When something goes wrong

Common problems

Leaves yellowing or the plant dying backYellowing, browning tips, or dieback
01 of 04
What happened For rosemary, yellow leaves, brown tips, and dieback usually mean too much water, not too little. Overwatering and soggy soil are the biggest killer. The plant is drowning, not thirsty.With rosemary, yellowing, browning tips, and dieback almost always mean too wet, not too dry. Overwatering and poor drainage are the number one killer, leading to root and crown rot. The plant is drowning, not thirsty. Next season Water much less and improve drainage. Use poor, well-draining soil in full sun, water deeply but only once in a while, and on heavy or wet ground plant on a mound. Never let it sit in soggy ground.Cut back on watering hard and fix drainage. Plant in lean, sharply drained soil in full sun, water deeply but infrequently, and on clay or in humid regions use a mound or raised bed. Never let rosemary sit in wet ground.
Rosemary killed or browned by coldBrowning or death after a freeze
02 of 04
What happened Rosemary is not very cold hardy. If yours browned or died over winter, it probably got too cold. Most kinds only survive winter in warmer areas, and even tough types have limits, so a hard freeze can kill it, especially the tender trailing ones.Rosemary is cold tender. A plant that browned or died over winter was likely pushed past its cold limit: the species and most cultivars are reliable only in about zones 8 to 10, hardy types like Arp and Hill Hardy into zone 6 or 7, and a hard freeze below that range, especially on a tender or trailing type, is often fatal. Next season Pick the right type for your winters. Use a tough cultivar like Arp or Hill Hardy with good drainage and a sheltered spot, or grow rosemary in a pot and bring it inside for the winter.Match the plant to your zone: choose a hardy cultivar (Arp for zone 6, Hill Hardy for zone 7) with sharp drainage and a sheltered site, or grow rosemary in a container and overwinter it indoors in a bright, cool spot.
Bare woody stems or bland leavesLeggy, woody, or weak-flavored growth
03 of 04
What happened If your rosemary has gone bare and woody at the bottom, or the leaves taste weak, it is usually getting too much food or water, or not enough trimming. Rich, wet conditions make soft, bland growth, and a plant that is never pinched gets leggy.A plant that has gone bare and woody at the base, or whose leaves have turned soft and bland, usually reflects too much feeding or water, or a lack of light harvesting. Over-fertilizing and overwatering drive lush growth with weaker flavor and fragrance, and rosemary that is never pinched or harvested gets leggy. Next season Stop feeding it, water less, give it full sun, and snip it regularly, cutting only into the green and never the bare wood, which will not grow back. A plant that is already very woody is often best replaced.Stop feeding, water less, give full sun, and harvest regularly, always cutting into green growth and never into bare wood, which does not resprout. A badly woody, hollow plant is often better replaced than renovated.
Is rosemary safe for pets and cookingRosemary, pets, and the kitchen
04 of 04
What happened Rosemary is one of the safer herbs to grow. It is a normal cooking herb, safe to eat in usual amounts and not considered toxic to cats, dogs, or horses.Good news on safety: rosemary is a well-established culinary herb, safe to eat in normal amounts and not considered toxic to cats, dogs, or horses. This is a friendlier profile than some ornamental herbs, so it is a sound choice around pets and children. Next season Cook only with your own unsprayed rosemary and give it a rinse. It is not toxic, but as with any plant, do not let a pet eat huge amounts.Use only your own unsprayed plants for cooking, rinse harvested sprigs, and, as with any herb, keep pets from gorging on the plant even though it is not considered toxic.
The usual suspects

Pests & diseases

Pests
Spider mites
P · 01
Symptoms Leaves look dusty, dull, or speckled, sometimes with fine webbing, usually in hot dry spells or on a plant kept indoors over winter.Fine stippling, dull or bronzed needles, and faint webbing, most common in hot, dry weather and especially on plants overwintered indoors in dry heat. Cause Very small mites that love dry air and dry, stressed plants. They flare up most on rosemary brought indoors for winter.Tiny sap-feeding mites that thrive in dry conditions. Dry indoor air over winter is a classic trigger, and drought-stressed outdoor plants are also vulnerable. Organic treatment Spray the plant off with water regularly, and for indoor plants raise the humidity. Use insecticidal soap if there are a lot. A healthy, unstressed plant shrugs them off.Rinse plants with a strong stream of water regularly, raise humidity around indoor plants, and use insecticidal soap or horticultural oil if numbers climb. Keeping the plant unstressed is the main defense. Prevention Hose the plant down now and then in dry weather, and do not let it get badly drought-stressed. Before bringing rosemary indoors for winter, check it over for pests first.Discourage mites by spraying plants with a strong stream of water during dry spells and avoiding drought stress; indoors, give good light and some humidity and inspect plants before bringing them in for winter.
Aphids and whiteflies
P · 02
Symptoms Now and then, small soft insects or tiny white flies on the new growth or flowers, usually on stressed, crowded, or indoor plants.Occasional clusters of small soft aphids or tiny white flies on new growth and flowers, most often on stressed or crowded plants and on rosemary brought indoors. Cause Small sap-sucking bugs that sometimes show up, mostly on indoor or stressed plants. Rosemary outdoors in the sun rarely has a problem.Sap-feeding insects that occasionally find rosemary. Outdoors, healthy plants in full sun rarely have trouble; indoor winter plants are more susceptible. Organic treatment Spray them off with water, or use insecticidal soap if there are many. More air and less stress usually fixes it.Rinse them off with water or use insecticidal soap if numbers rise. Improving airflow and removing nearby stressors usually resolves it. Prevention Keep rosemary in full sun with room around it and do not overwater. Healthy plants rarely get these bugs.Give plants full sun, lean soil, good spacing, and airflow, and avoid overwatering. Vigorous, unstressed rosemary rarely attracts these pests.
Spittlebugs
P · 03
Symptoms Blobs of white froth that look like spit on the stems in spring, with a tiny bug hidden inside. It looks worse than it is.Frothy white spit-like foam on stems in spring, with a small nymph hidden inside. It looks alarming but rarely harms an established rosemary plant. Cause Young spittlebugs hiding in the foam while they feed. There are usually only a few, and they do little real harm.Spittlebug nymphs that shelter inside their own foam while feeding on sap. Numbers are usually low and the damage is mostly cosmetic. Organic treatment If the froth bothers you, spray it off with a hose. You usually do not need to do anything else.Knock them off with a strong spray of water if you find them unsightly. No treatment is needed for plant health in most cases. Prevention Nothing special is needed. Giving plants room, sun, and not too much water keeps rosemary healthy enough to handle small pests.No specific prevention is warranted. Good spacing, full sun, and no overwatering keep rosemary vigorous enough to shrug off minor pests.
Diseases
Root and crown rot
D · 01
Symptoms Leaves yellow, tips brown, and the plant wilts and dies back even though the soil is wet, often with a dark, rotted spot where the stems meet the ground. This is the main thing that kills rosemary, and it comes from staying too wet.Yellowing, wilting, browning tips, and dieback that does not recover with watering, often with a darkened, decayed crown at the soil line. It is the disease of concern for rosemary and is tied to wet soil and poor drainage. Cause A rot that takes hold when soil stays soggy and drains badly, attacking the roots and base. The real cause is too much water, not cold.Water mold pathogens (Phytophthora and related water molds) that thrive in saturated, poorly drained soil and attack the roots and crown. Overwatering and wet feet, not cold, are the underlying cause. Organic treatment Once the base is rotting there is no fix, so pull out and throw away affected plants. The answer is preventing it with good drainage, not curing it.There is no cure once the crown is rotting; remove and discard affected plants. Focus entirely on prevention through drainage rather than rescue. Prevention Plant in well-draining soil in full sun, water deeply but rarely, and never let rosemary sit in soggy ground. On heavy clay, plant on a mound or raised bed and give plants room.Plant in sharply drained soil in full sun, water deeply but infrequently, and never let rosemary sit in wet ground. On clay, use a mound or raised bed, and space plants for airflow.
Powdery mildew
D · 02
Symptoms A white powdery film on the leaves, more likely in damp, still air or on crowded and indoor plants. It is a minor problem next to root rot.A white powdery coating on foliage, favored by damp, still, humid air and crowded plants. It is most common on rosemary overwintered indoors and in humid regions, and is minor compared with root and crown rot. Cause A leaf fungus that likes damp, stuffy air with no breeze. Crowding and stale indoor air over winter make it worse.Foliar fungi favored by poor air circulation and humidity. Crowding, low airflow, and stagnant indoor winter conditions raise the risk. Organic treatment Give the plant more air and space, and for indoor plants keep some air moving. Pick off badly coated leaves.Improve airflow, thin crowded growth, and space plants; indoors, give good air movement and light. Remove badly affected foliage. Prevention Keep air moving around the plant: give it room and full sun, water at the base, and do not crowd it indoors over winter.Good air circulation is the main defense: space plants, site in full sun, avoid overhead watering, and do not crowd indoor winter plants.
Seasoned
Where to plant next year

Crop rotation

N/A. Rosemary is not rotated like a vegetable because it is a permanent plant that stays put for years. If you replace an old one, pick a fresh, well-draining spot.N/A. Rosemary is a long-lived perennial that stays in place for years, so annual crop rotation does not apply. When replanting an old rosemary spot, choose a fresh, well-drained site to avoid carrying over soil-borne root rot.

In the app · pre-launch

When plant taps you on the shoulder

The plant app sends a timely reminder at every critical moment of your rosemary season. The wording adjusts to whichever you pick: beginner or seasoned. Here are three you'll see in Zone 5.

p
plant
0 days after last frost
Time to plant your rosemary
It is time to plant your rosemary. Put it in a sunny, well-draining spot now that frost has passed, leaving 24 to 36 inches between plants, and do not add fertilizer.
p
plant
0 days after last frost
Time to trim and harvest your rosemary
Your rosemary is growing well, so snip sprigs and lightly shape it. Cut only into the green leafy parts, take no more than about a fifth at a time, and stay above the hard woody stems, which will not grow back.
p
plant
0 days after last frost
Get your rosemary ready for winter
Winter is coming. In warm areas, stop watering and feeding. In cold areas, bring potted rosemary inside to a bright, cool spot before hard frost, since a hard freeze or soggy soil is what usually kills it.
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Methodology & sources

Every date, temperature, spacing, and recommendation on this page is sourced from university cooperative extension publications, peer-reviewed agricultural research, NOAA climate data, and direct extension calendars. Where claims are softer (traditional gardening wisdom not formally documented), we say so.

Research-backed Documented in cooperative extension publications or peer-reviewed research
Well-grounded A known agronomic principle, but not formally tested for this specific pair
Traditional Time-tested gardening wisdom, limited formal research support
Last reviewed
May 12, 2026
Data version
crops_data_final · v1.0 · schema 2.9
Sources cited on this page
16 publications
Verified entries
Companion-planting claims tagged inline · zone dates verified against 5+ extensions
See all sources cited on this page
  • University of Minnesota Extension umn_ext
  • University of Maryland Extension umd_ext
  • Cornell Cooperative Extension cornell_ext
  • Iowa State University Extension iastate_ext
  • Michigan State University Extension msu_ext
  • NC State Extension ncsu_ext
  • Penn State Extension psu_ext
  • U. of Illinois Urbana-Champaign Extension uiuc_ext
  • UC Davis Postharvest Center ucd_postharvest
  • Texas A&M AgriLife Extension tamu_agrilife
  • Virginia Cooperative Extension 426-331 vce_426_331
  • Piedmont Master Gardeners piedmont_mg
  • UGA Vegetable Garden Calendar uga_calendar
  • Clemson Home & Garden Information Center clemson_hgic
  • UC IPM Statewide IPM Program uc_ipm
  • NOAA 1991-2020 Climate Normals noaa_normals

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Vol. 003 · Rosemary · plant.lifestyle